Villa francs de Los Barros to Torremejia

Last night we had a delicious meal at the Meson Casa Manuela for €8.50 which had three courses. I had grilled pimentos followed by grilled chicken and chips and then a delicious but not sweet nut cream dessert. The others had garlic soup, egg and vegetables, stew and chocolate dessert, and chocolate cake. The wine was really good too. We had had to wait till 8:30 before we could have dinner so Peter and I went off to buy provisions for today's long walk.

We were keen to stay up and watch the first Easter procession we had found out was starting at 10:00 pm. Each night through Easter week they take out a different scene from the Passion of Christ- significant actions that led up to the final crucifiction of Jesus, and parade the tableau around the town. The evening crowd was abuzz with excitement but as soon as the church doors opened a hush fell over everyone. The pennitents come out and lined the street, then the first tableau of Christ came out. The band struck up a dirge like song and the whole lot proceeded up the street. then the Virgin Mary was brought out. It was very moving and powerful. 

The tone was such a contrast to the evening which had preceded with children playing in the square and adults all standing around talking or sitting in cafés all energetically socialising after siesta. The pennitents all wear these tall hats and have their faces covered with only slits for eyes. We had seen biscuits in the windows  in their shape.. Even the shops have tableaux of the Easter story in their windows like we have Christmas decorations.

We set off today  for Torremejia, 27.5 kms of nothing but vineyards and olive trees for as far as the eye could see. No shade on the way and just hard pressed road. It was a slog and Karen has developed a very sore knee. She is in pain and is hobbling. I find it pretty boring so start to listen to my music which puts a spring in my step and I take off. I am singing out loud when Peter catches up and starts to join in on the choruses. The French pilgrims look up  as we pass and Peter tells them I have been touched by the sun.

Eventually we find a place to stop for a snack. Peter dangles from an olive tree to stretch his back and I just keep my feet up.a white car pulls up and it is an Albergue owner touting for business. It turns out Karen has booked at his place to give her an incentive and so he offers to take our packs. We jump at the offer but feel weird without our constant companions. It is at least another 9 kms to town and starts to wear us down. Along the way a slim brown dog has started to follow the French group but he includes us too and  seems to be shepherding us all to town. He waits in the shade till Karen passes before he sets off again rounding us all into a loose group. He is very gentle but wary of sticks.
As we finally head towards the Albergue another little dog(lots of little Yorkshire terrier type dogs in these towns) starts barking through the window and the owner says "there goes the Camino dog". We are intrigued. Does he go out everyday and shepherd pilgrims into town we wonder?
We all collapse onto our beds and there is general consensus that we are all somewhat dehydrated. The guys go out later for drinks and the inevitable ice cream. This is a real cowboy town and there is a continual racket of dogs barking and howling through siesta. The only noise. We are staying in Hostal Rojo Plata which is comfortable but there is no kitchen.