Carcabosa to Caparra Arch - Asturias 19 km

All my worst nightmares occurred today. I left my passport and money in the Hostal Elena we stayed in last night. I only realised when we went to book into our new place at Asturias. We rang and the lady had found it but I have to wait all day before the owner of this place can take me back to collect it. I am trusting the money will all be there as I have found the Spanish very honest but it is the passport that really concerns me. I am in a state of anxiety waiting. Sylvie a French friend who speaks Spanish is coming with me. I have a routine with the sleeping bag and dressing that means it is securely with me but last night no bag and a different routine this morning and I completely forgot it. A new lesson (no 7?). Double check before you set off anywhere that you have everything. 

We had a lovely meal last night in a little restaurant the Swallows in English. Judging by the curiosity of the locals who came to  talk to us and find out where we were from, they usually don't get pilgrims there.  I ended the meal with a milk pudding and honey. It was really light and refreshing and the guys had whiskey cake. They brought out a torte like cake and then poured a huge glug of whiskey over it. The guys said it was great!

We walked to the Arc de Caparra the last roman arch remaining of a once important city that marked the crossroads of east and west and north to south in roman Spain. There are substantial excavations of what is left but the arch has been on all our way markers in Extramedura region.
the walk was wonderful through verdant pastures filled with cows and calves, beautiful trees, glimpses of snow on the surrounding ranges and lovely mellow sunshine. We went through lots of paddocks with cows and sheep. We came into one paddock with a large bull over by the fence. I said to Andy that the bull looked a bit frisky so I walked up close behind Andy for protection. The bull turned and stared at us but we just walked steadily towards him and he suddenly took fright and galloped off to the rest of the herd, even getting a fright when he saw a stork in his path.  Not very dignified for a bull but I was happy. 

I love my bottle Kim!

I started to get tired just as the arch finally came into view. The site of it through the trees lifted my spirits and I started to charge on but it took what seemed ages to finally reappear.  It was so spectacular that I was eager to go on to the interpretation centre supposedly 200 metres further on. These Spanish measurements seem a bit elastic to me because when we get to the road a more formal sign indicates 500 metres. Undeterred we walk UPhill and round the bend expecting any moment to be enjoying ice cream or coffees. To our immense disappointment the centre is closed on Mondays!

As we turn to rejoin others we passed who are waiting for a pickup from the Asturias Hostal the van arrives and stops to pick us up. Peter has been feeling stiff and tired today so he is eager for the lift and a shorter day too. The driver takes us to the Hostal. It is not on the Camino  and is in reality a truck stop on the highway! We are glad of the lift anyway but then when we get here we realise pilgrims are a way of making extra money because you would never walk here otherwise. This entrepreneur fills his rooms with pilgrims while the dining room is full of truck drivers. The food is good anyway. I lunch with Sylvie because I an hungry and want to stick with her until I get the passport back.  I have a room on my own again with an ensuite so I wash my hair and try to keep calm. At least the wifi is good here.

I was thinking how funny I must look. My knickers are stretching and I have lost weight so they come up over my trousers and my trousers are slipping down my slimmer hips. I look like a teenager with my undies showing. Fortunately I wear my tops out so this disparity in my dress isn't terribly obvious!