Alcantara to Riolobos

There was a rush by some of the French pilgrims to get started in the dark today. Some are anxious to get a bed tonight I think as Dennis said every place they have stayed up to date has filled. We haven't had that experience but with our rest days the surge has caught us. The next stage is quite confusing because the route has been changed. As a result there are some options of doing a medium day or a long day. Canaveral no longer has accommodation other than a bar restaurant, the Malaga so we will be walking on. We decide to go into town anyway for cafe con leche and then decide our destination. Once we hit the church we can't see any arrows. While we look around Peter sees a shop open, it is nearly 10.00 am and it is one of the little Spanish stores that has everything you can think of . A real mixed business, they are treasure troves. Peter is looking for a poncho substitute as his is too small and his arms get wet. He has already bought a kids size 12 rain coat because the little Chinese girl who served us spoke such excellent English and was so helpful when her parents hadn't a clue that he felt he had to  but it is too small of course. Anyway the lady shop owner finds a men's rain jacket and pants for him!€8 and he is set.  I ask her for directions to the nearest bar and the Camino route. She is so helpful. I love the way Spanish people are so kind and pleasant.

Roadworks we passed that have been going for a few years. Lots of bridges half finished.

Fortified with coffee we set off again. 11kms down and maybe 20 more to go according to my GPS.
We meet up with Niko and his minder. We had lost touch after the convent. We greet him warmly and  he offers his hand for a handshake. This is huge. Niko is on a community service order. He was abandoned by his mother and was living on the streets, running with the wrong crowd, not going to school, doing drugs and probably petty thieving to survive.  He got into the system and showed a desire to change his life, to finish school etc.  An organisation in conjunction with the German government has given him the opportunity to walk the Camino as a way of rehabilitation. When we first met him he was so wary and never spoke or smiled at us( boring , judgemental adults he assumed) but we have all warmed to him and wish him well. Our German friend Katharina, asked if she could interview him and record his story. He agreed and he was happy to share it with us. Since then he has always greeted us and I think he feels some of the acceptance that can be a special part of the Camino.
We have decided to aim for   Riolobos  and start up a really steep hill. Fortunately it is short but a grunt. Then we seem to be on a plateau that undulates through pine forests, then beautiful oaks, cork  trees and acres of rock rose bushes as tall as me. It seems like we have fallen out of the world into a fabulous garden. 

We pass through numerous gates and happen upon a herd of black shaggy goats all rushing towards us. Their bells are donging and they scatter around us. There would easily be 100. Next it is fabulous pasture for big black Aberdeen Angus type cattle. We are clocking up the distance but it seems like kilometres to go. Lots of yellow arrows as we pass the turn off to Grimaldi. Now we are committed whatever the distance.  On we go through bogs and creeks and more fabulous country strewn with wild flowers and  herds of animals. 

Taking a break for refreshment of yoghurt and apple tarts.

This time we disturb a rather mean large cow with very sharp horns.  She just stares but doesn't look happy. Now we are starting to feel the distance. I estimate another ten kilometres at least and my legs are feeling weary. The sky is ominous and we continue to have misty showers that make us damp but we are so hot the water evaporates. Plenty of yellow arrows but still no idea of distance. Finally we see the turn off to Riolobos. It is a pretty lane edged with stone fences rather like Galicia but all I can think about is how much longer. If I stop it is like a machine you need to wind before it gets momentum to keep spinning so I don't stop! The village starts to appear but still seems ages away. At last we hit town and ask a bar owner where the Casa Rural Abuela Maxi is. It has the most rooms of the two places we can stay.  The bar owner walks through his back door which makes us scramble to follow and he actually walks us to the street! We must look so wretched! At the door of the Casa there is a note that the owner is out and we need to ring. I haul out the phone and summon my paltry Spanish to request 'habitation for tres persona'. She arrives shortly after to find me sitting on the ground legs outstretched at her front door.

She is gorgeous and there are two rooms. A single and double with two beds. When I explain we are amigos but solo she gets it and I get the single room, the guys share the double.  She is amazed we have walked 32 kilometres today.
We all collapse onto our beds. It is heaven. No sharing showers with hordes and wifi that works. I have been struggling with the wifi for the last few days. We all shower, wash clothes in a machine
(again, we are spoiled) and go to bed for awhile.  Later Andrew brings a cup of tea. What a treat. Now off to the kind bar owner for a pre dinner drink and investigate before returning for tea at the Casa rural. Our hostess arrives at 8:00 pm with our dinner and some friends who speak English so we know exactly what to do for breakfast and dinner.  She has included a home baked tortilla and delicious salad in our fee,  as well as fruit and dessert.  It is such a lovely touch that we get to meet her friends and she was sure we understood everything. This place is highly recommended by us. She kissed us all and wished us buen Camino as we will leave early again tomorrow.