Poza to Silleda

We set off in the rain to go to Oseira to visit the Monastry. It is a Cistercian monastry established in the 1100s by St Bernard and consecrated in 1235 or thereabouts. It was extremely important as it was a centre for administration and enjoyed the favour of the king and many noblemen joined and bequeathed their land to the Monastry. It is one of the largest in Spain. We were intent on getting there before 10 am so we could do the tour. It was a very quick 12kms! Hardly any other pilgrims seem to go there judging by the paths. With all the rain over the last few days the track was a bog or running stream and very rough. The rain made all the vegetation hang low over the track so that even a shorty like me was struggling to pass through or under the shrubbery lining the track.

We had been a bit unsure whether it was worth the effort as it was adding extra kilometres but we were so glad we went. The monastry is very impressive and the tour was so interesting AND in English.

There are only 30 monks there now. In the 1890s the government forcibly acquired the assets of the monastry and it fell into disrepair. The local villagers plundered the stone for their buildings and farmed in the courtyards but in 1926 it was returned to the order and reconstruction took place. In its heyday the monks made Champagne and liqueurs. Apparently some Franciscan monks returned from their mission in Australia(New Norsica in WA?) and brought back some eucalyptus trees thus introducing the species to Galicia, Spain.  The church survived intact as a parish church and it was so elegant and simple, the style designated by St. Bernard. The monastry had a pharmacy and also experimented with eucalyptus as a liqueur.  We all bought some and the jolly monk who had opened the shop gave us some small paintings of Christ that he had done. He is a good artist and was so charming. He learned English working in a boutique in London many years ago. 

Back to the camino track and a farmer told us to take the road because the track was really bad. Not knowing if that would extend our trip we ignored him and continued up the track. It was rough but better than what we had followed to get to the monastry! 

A new marker on the rough track.

We finally get to Castro Dozen and a rather uninspiring Albergue.it is right on the edge of town in a sort of sports complex.  The showers are communal in the women's and we have been told they are cold! The secret tip is to use the disabled shower as it is lovely and hot. As we are almost the first here I hop in quickly and then do some washing. I discover that my liqueur has leaked inside my pack. I have sticky orange stuff over my clothes compression bag. I was it off as best I can and find a plastic bottle to decant into. It is really cold and wet and incredibly blowy. I hang out the clothes and nearly die of exposure in the process. I am wearing my pink icebreaker t shirt I have been wearing as pyjamas and my long sleeved black icebreaker and my windcheaters and my rain jacket and I am still cold.

Once the hostelaria has checked us in at 4:30 we retreat hurriedly to the nearest bar to play cards and wait for dinner which is alarmingly late at 8 pm. The Aussies join us and we play with them too. In the end the dinner table extends to include a French couple, Dominique and Regis who have only been married two years but who met on a past Camino. Regis gives Dominique a flower every day. They are fun and very romantic with each other.  Another pilgrim is German and he sits with us too. It is a very genial evening. Franwyn and Regis do card tricks!

When we return to the Albergue it is full, washing is draped over every heater and our clothes are still damp. While we were playing cards the latecomers have snagged all the drying spots.

Next day we are off to Silleda. We are dressed for the rain again. I get so damp in my gear but without all the layers I am too cold. Our first stop is 12kms and we are desperate for coffee and I order a cheese and tomato bocadilla which turns out to be the best I have had so far. Two Dutch pilgrims join us and order the same. One had slept in the bunk above me last night. They are very pleasant company and completing their third and they say final Camino. They are walking longer days than us and aim to be in Santiago tomorrow. We are taking an extra day. The walk is wet, muddy, uphill more than we thought but through many picturesque tree lined lanes. 

We are all a bit tired and disappointed to find our planned second bar stop is closed and so we retreat to a little general store  to buy some drinks at least. These stores fascinate because they seem to have a little of everything but all look so old fashioned, from the fifties almost.

We meet Franwyn and Almutt on the last turn off into town. Franwyns sole has come off her boot and she really has to throw them out now! They opt for the road while we take the peaceful wooded lanes into town and then make a hasty charge for our per booked accommodation before we get a dump of rain again.  The Albergue Touristico is- you guessed it, upstairs on the second floor! We decide to go to lunch straight away instead of dinner and it is delicious and food and bed together only €16.

The bar is full of men of all ages playing cards with the interesting Spanish cards. They are all playing different games and it is a very lively atmosphere with the television on the football too, of course.

After lunch  Andy goes exploring, I hop into bed surrounded by our washing hung or draped wherever we can to dry off. It has been so wet I have hardly taken any photos the last two days. I do the blog and Peter flakes out before taking a long bath. I am really enjoying bed in the afternoon! Especially if it is wet and cold.