Finisterre and Muxia

Finisterre from the top of the hill

Pilgrim statue on road to lighthouse

Today we hired a car and drove to Finisterre and Muxia. We parked at Finisterre village and walked out to the lighthouse and the"end of the world". 

Lighthouse and end of the earth

This is a traditional Camino ritual to go out to Finisterre and then to plunge nto the Atlantic-frequently done as a naked dash. To get to the beach we had to walk over the headland, a steep uphill and then down the other side to the beach. 

Beach for plunging into the ocean.

Andy was looking for a path he took once before but it seemed to take us into the blackberries and I have had more than enough encounters with that plant so Peter, Karen and I  preferred to use the more well trodden path. The view from the top was magnificent, a little reminiscent of Wilson's Prom Waterloo beach I thought.  We made our way to the beach intending to do the naked dash but there were too many people on the beach and we chickened out. We changed into our swimsuits and then ran into the water. It looked so beautiful, turquoise  and enticing but it was freezing, especially for a little Aussie. I stayed in until a wave washed over my shoulders and my legs began to ache with cold, then ran out squealing.

 I dressed pretty quickly to warm up. We weren't the only ones who did the plunge and rushed out just as quickly. It was good to be out walking in the country even though we only did about 8 kms all together then headed into town for a hot lunch.  I had delicious squid and salad and our favourite vegetable, Pimentos padrons ( small green peppers quickly fried),

Next stop Muxia. It was sunny but very windy. We parked in town and walked out to the  church on the headland. I was quite upset when I saw the church.  It was struck by lightening and then burnt om Christmas Day in 2012. They are working on stopping further damage but it doesn't look like much else is happening. 

No roof and burnt out.

Last time I was there in the June of 2012 it was intact and rather lovely.  That day was cold and misty. what a contrast. We also identified the huge rock that is supposed to be  the sail on the boat in which the Virgin appeared to St James.

By now it was about 7 pm and we headed back to Santiago. It is so easy to lose track of the time when  there is a siesta and everything comes alive at 6pm. We return the car to the station and congratulate Karen on a fine job driving us around. As we walk home through the old town it is 8:45 and the place is hopping.

Santiago day 3

We return to the Mass today hopefully to retrieve Peter's jacket and the keys to the apartment. Karen joins us this time and while it is the same priest he gives a different homily, which is just as down to earth and just as inspiring about living joyfully. The jacket had been put in the confessional box.  Not too many people would be looking there! We all stay for the pilgrims mass because the choir is singing. I had hoped the botafumeria might swing but alas no. Now they state that only Catholics can take communion which I thought was disappointing, especially as that was not the case at the English mass or when we did the Camino Frances in 2012.  Anyway the choir sang well and then had a further impromptu performance following the mass. 

We decide to go to lunch at this great little restaurant down a lane. The food was delicious and I was cracking jokes to the waitress when I handed her a clean plate that it had been a struggle and she understood the joke and said that it was famous Australian irony. I was surprised and delighted that she really understood. After the meal they brought coffee and liqueur that is local and practically singes the hair up your nose but was good in the coffee!Andy asked for a Cola Cao, which is like hot milk cocoa. In true Galician style, which is direct and earthy, she told him this was not a children's place! We all laughed.

A shop selling Galician products including the liqueur.

We pass the pilgrims office and there is a growing queue, mainly Camino Frances completes but no one we know from the Via de la Plata. We are waiting on Katharina and Almutt.

We all have errands to do but as it is siesta not much is open so we try to take a cathedral roof tour. No English tour is available so we need to try another day. It is the beauty of being here a few days that we can come back another time. We are all a bit tired now and need our own siesta. I finally get some new knickers on the way back. Mine are looking a little worse for wear after 7 weeks of hand washing and wringing day in and day out. Peter elects to take a bath. I have never met any guy who so loves a soak in a bath as Peter!  I snuggle under my blanket with a coffee and the blog.

Santiago de Compostella

We have been exploring the city even though it is very wet. Peter has done a lot of souvenir shopping but I have a couple more months travel so I am wary of getting too many presents that I have to cart around. I have been to collect the parcels of clothes I forwarded to Santiago. In the process of finding thus we found the market, other uni versify faculties, squares and plazas and finally practically outside I give up and ring Ivar who tells me to look up! I had walked right past the door. This has been a great service but un fortunately all the extra clothes are for hot weather and it is cold still here. The jeans at least will be useful.

On our way back to the flat we bump into Franwyn from Gippsland who is now on her own.  Almuth has continued on to Finisterre to make up the kilometres she missed going to Madrid for her Chinese Visa, and Jeanie has flown to Barcelona on her way home to Australia.  We invite her to join us in a visit to Gaias, City of Culture a fascinating set of buildings on the top of Mount Gaias a hill overlooking Santiago. It was designed to link Contemporary Galicia with the world and a place for programs of all types, art, concerts, education. Entrepreneurship and the cultural industry are the priority.  Unfortunately it has not been completed due to the collapse of the EU funding and the fact it cost four times the budget planned. We visited an art exhibition on the theme of water. It was really interesting covering water represented in art, earth, engineering, the home and space.  They had Australian dot paintings that were of waterholes and billabongs etc but the explanation was about Albert Namatjara and not appropriate.  We were impressed by the building but it left us wondering. It would be perfect for skateboarding as it mimics the shape of the mountain and you could practically walk onto the roof. 

One of the sculptures. It was old text books!

When we left there was a group of school kids all clustered at the top of one of the slopes like birds. On our walk back down we came across this park area with flourishing community gardens and three mazes made from camellia bushes which we proceeded to wend our way through.

We were all starving now and in search of a vegetarian restaurant that was supposed to open at 7 pm but wasn't when we arrived. We went off looking for a bar to kill time or look for an alternative. It started to pour heavily so we retreated inside. Then Karen saw a light go on outside the restaurant; It was now 7:45 pm. So back we went. Punctual opening isn't a common practice and as most Spanish eat at 9 onwards early eating is seen as a bit barbaric anyway. The food was worth the wait and I had razor clams and salad, while all the others had vegetarian. It was a very successful day.

Santiago day 2

Franwyn, Peter and I went to the English mass in the chapel within the Cathedral. An Irish priest took it and asked everyone where we had come from( country) and  from where we had started our walk. There were only a couple of other Aussies in attendance and of the 50 odd people only 5 had completed the Via de la Plata all the others had done full or part Camino Frances. Many were very emotional. We were invited to make petitions verbally or to write them and drop them into a bowl. The chapel had lots of notes on all the shelves around the walls. The homily was very down to earth and yet inspiring at the same time and the service was very inclusive of non-Catholics. We were all really pleased we attended. It has been a highlight for me. It seems to have articulated my feelings about this trip. The priest talked about how we had left the comfort and security of our homes and family to follow the Way of St James as James had followed Jesus and that we need to persist in our faith even when we have doubts because God is revealed in the small things in our lives. We all felt this was true of our experiences on the Camino.  Also that our whole lives are a continuing pilgrimage.

The chapel foe English mass.
We went for coffee afterwards and Peter realised he had left his rain jacket AND the key to the apartment in the chapel. When he tried to return it was all locked up and the main church was in full pilgrim mass. We will have to return tomorrow. He went off to meet his Galician friend and Franwyn and I do a bit o shopping. I finally organise to have a bracelet made because I cannot find what I want. I am happy. Next we go looking for the Galician museum and modern art gallery. We hear all this noise like cannons going off and when we ask a local it turns out to be a celebration for Ascension day and it is a fiesta day. When we turn the wrong way and can't find the museum in the rain we decide to go to lunch instead-and try later.

A street at siesta time

Where we had lunch

We go to a restaurant attached to the Parador but which has a modest Menu del Dia. For €12  we have a quality 3 course meal with wine, water and coffee. I had beautiful paella, followed by salmon and salad and a flan for dessert.  When we head for the museum this time in the correct direction we discover it is closed for Fiesta in the afternoon. We go to the contemporary art gallery instead. It has a lot of rather weird art but a nice cafe where we spend time waiting for the rain to abate. It doesn't. We brave the rain looking for Zara and other fashion shops but they are all closed for Fiesta of course, in fact most of the shops are closed. There goes the shopping for clothes- saved a fortune. It is now heavy rain and Franwyn has no longer got any rain gear. She gave Almuth her poncho because hers had a tear.
Fran heads back to her hotel and we say our goodbyes. She flies to Germany tomorrow to visit her daughter. It has been a real delight spending time together. I head back to our place hoping Andy and Karen are in because I no longer have a key. To my relief they are there when I call through the window.
They have found a flyer for a free choral concert at 9pm in the church of Saint Francisco so we head out to that. It is a massive church with a baroque style and good acoustics but the seats are rather uncomfortable and by the end of the concert I have a cold numb rear end. We go for coffee but come across the Tuna musicians playing popular songs and so we stay and listen. They are dressed in medieval costumes with ribbons and badges attached to their capes which represent faculties from the university.Then it is past the square where there is a famous local Galician pop singer having an out door concert in the rain, which has let up finally. The music is pounding. What a contrast, choral renaissance tunes, folk music and pop all within one kilometre of each other. 

Casa de Casar, Lestedo to Santiago de Compostella 13 km

Last night we had a delicious meal; zucchini soup, stir fried mixed vegetables(!!!) potato and Jamon  croquettes, and fresh salad followed by fresh strawberries. It was a treat not to have lomo(pork) and chips or all the other rather limited permutations of the pilgrim's menu.

After dinner we played cards in the living room and crashed about 11:00 pm.

We rise as per usual and get organised so we can make a quick get away after breakfast at 7:00 pm. We head down to where we ate dinner but there is no breakfast! Andy is a bit miffed so I try to make espresso coffees for everyone,  but have to go to the bathroom to get enough water for the three cups. The noise of coffee making should rouse our hostess! She puts her head around the corner to say breakfast is in the dining room downstairs. We are faced with a wonderful spread of cheese, meat, Apple Danish, lemon cake, yoghurt, cereal, toast, coffee and hot milk as well as fresh juice and fruit. We feel embarrassed at our uncharitable thoughts.

We tuck in and enjoy this expansive spread. All up, the bed, breakfast and dinner cost €38 each and included wine. Our most expensive night but well worth it. 

The walk into Santiago brings us together with Anna Rose and Swift as well as the Aussies. They stayed at the Xunta Albergue which was very nice, nearly empty, a bit cold but the Hostalaria cooked a meal for them. They stop at a bar for breakfast and we push on. We walk up the road and the music of the Camino resounds:  tap, tap(sticks), woof, woof( dogs barking as you pass), cock a doodle do( roosters crowing), tweet, trill( little birds singing).  This will be over soon. 

There is a beautiful silver grey horse at the bus stop and saddle on the bus stop seat. It seems the rider is chatting in a car nearby. Must be in for a long talk to un-saddle the horse. Next there is a fancy float loading a beautiful chestnut horse. What is going on we wonder?  We keep hearing bangs like guns and think there might be a hunt on.

There are a few steep hills but soon we cross a railway bridge adorned with flowers and rosaries, notes and personal items. It is an informal shrine to the 30 people killed in a train accident here in 2013(?)  It reminds us how lucky we are.

We crest the hill and see the Cathedral. It is impressive from here but there is scaffolding around the front towers and a Ferris wheel! That is very different from last time.

We wend our way into the old town and I think this is a much nicer approach than the Camino Frances. Also we are literally the only pilgrims on this street. When we get close to the Cathedral we are surrounded by pilgrims from the Camino Frances. What a difference. We do see a couple of VdlP veterans who we know and get to take a group photo.

 Peter and I decide to get our final stamp and Compostella as soon as possible. Andy isn't bothered. We find the pilgrims office and the queue is not too bad so we wait. The Aussies turn up but decide not to bother at this stage to get their stamp etc. It takes an hour to go through and some pilgrims grumble but I think what is an hour after 7 weeks? People are in all states, injured, shoes taped up, exhausted, fresh faced, packs on, packs off, happy, tired, all speaking different languages. We speak to a French guy who has been doing the French way 2 weeks at a time. He manages a concrete construction company. He has learned that he likes walking and will continue to do it in his spare time. He marvels that we have walked for 7 weeks at one time. He has walked mostly on his own and when I ask him if he got new ideas about his work, he said he mostly thought about his past. It is interesting how your mind wanders over your life or over the ways of the world when you have space to do so.

What is reinforced by this gathering is the relative solo nature of the VdlP and the less known walks. Few pilgrims walk these routes and as we have found, you might not see anyone else all day sometimes. You are far more in your own head and emotions. Even at the end of the day when you come to rest there may be fewer pilgrims and many who just need to rest because they are doing large distances every day. The Frances by comparison was a party. 

Once through the pilgrim office we have a quick coffee and then head to the station to catch the train to Karen at Illa de Arousa where she has been staying while we finish walking. 

This is the hotel Lyn and I stayed at last time. We stop for coffee in the sun but it starts to rain and we retreat hurriedly to inside the very little cafe .

Andy has had to wait for us and is impatient to get going. The train is lovely and we are soon at Vilar de Garcia where we get a taxi. The apartment is rather cute and overlooks the bay which is filled with fishing boats, mussel barges, and rowing boats. This is a mussel growing town but boasts the best beaches in Galicia. It isn't very touristy. 

We are starving by now and Karen has prepared a vegetarian feast. The supermarket didn't run to champers so Karen bought fizzy Lanbrusco to celebrate our arrival. We also finally drink the eucalyptus liqueur from the monastry at Oseira. Rather tasty. 

When Karen arrived here her hosts collected her from the station because it was raining. They were also going to a concert that night and invited her along. It turned out the performer was an amazing famous Galician singer who had the whole audience stamping feet and clapping hands and singing the chorus of songs. It was a spectacular evening. Karen's hosts are vegetarians also and so have generously been including her in their meals. There is a tradition here of wooden fishing boats( similar to our couta boats I think) and there is a move to restore and preserve them. Under the local library there is a workshop to this end. Karen's host, Debra and Xavier invited her to join them on Saturday. The common language between Karen and her hosts is French and Spanish. They mostly speak Galician which is a dialect. Karen was therefore not entirely sure what she was being invited to. As it turned out she was kitted out in overalls and handed a paint brush and became part of the community restoration project. She had a great time. Her Camino has been about discovering the generosity of the Spanish people.

This has been a different arrival and I am looking forward to returning to Santiago on Tuesday for a longer stay. The crowds are a little unsettling, so village life here will be a nice gentle re- entry to the nonCamino world. A few things are different. You cannot enter the church with a backpack now, they have an English mass in the side chapel at 10:30 every day, and they have a pilgrims prayer vigil at regular times. You can get a certificate of distance too.

I can't quite believe I have finished. I have made three new friends who were like angels when they appeared on my journey. That we should meld as we have done is a gift I really appreciate. 

Silleda to Lestedo 28 km

Last night we took ourselves off to a great little bar and played cards until bed time. I had whiskey because I was feeling cold and it was such a nice change. Andy had wine and Peter had beer and the owner provided complimentary three little bowls of spaghetti chopped into small pieces mixed with pulpo(octopus) which I had to eat because neither of the men like seafood. What a hardship- not! She then gave us pepitos and chips and then bread with cheese and sausage. These little bars are great places so that was our dinner. It had a great atmosphere and was full of people all ages.

The room was really toasty when we returned and the clothes were mostly dry. Tick.
We plan to leave after breakfast at 7:30 am downstairs but the bar is not open and doesn't look like it is going to either despite us being assured they would. Oh well that is Spain. We set off and find a very nice place five minutes up the road serving hot croissants which we ordered with our cafe con leche. The bar owner provides shot glasses of  fresh orange juice too. Now set we head off full of enthusiasm. Andy is walking pretty fast with the incentive of seeing Karen tomorrow. We plan to stop for a break at the 8 km mark, then 14km  and possibly another stop before our destination. Andy has learned to take the first open bar because the next is not always open and the troops(us) grumble. We make good time and find a stunning patisserie. This time I Oder orange juice, and a miniature cream puff. The guys have the standard choc croissant and chocolate, cafe con leche grande (Peter knows this very well in Spanish) and a jellied topped slice. The owner gives both the guys a shot glass of orange juice and a plate of sponge slices. I eat the sponge and it is delicious. Ther goes me being restrained. All this for the grand price of €6.
The walk is varied through fields, villages with more modern homes, up hill, down dale, and lots of views across the valley.  Coming into Ponte Ulla we head down a steep descent which is a bit hard on the knees, but it affords fabulous views of the new fast train bridge which has a design to complement the Roman Viaduct behind it. It is quite spectacular.  

Once across the river we head into a steady climb, climb, climb. Not hard just up all the way.  We come across the French couple Dominiique and Regis. Regis is struggling today as he has developed a shin splint. We see another bar earlier than planned and decide to take a break. Dominique and Regis decide to have lunch and hope resting for an hour will ease his problem. I suggest some stretches which Regis tries with great enthusiasm. We all laugh when Dominique starts mimicking exercises, throwing her arms around and doing knee bends. Their lunch is an antipasta plate of meat and cheese and honey to go with the cheese. It is huge and the chirizo slices are the size of our mortadella which is unusual.

Feeling somewhat refreshed we set off. I have put on my gel pads because the balls of my feet are feeling tender. Peter is walking very well with his new gel insoles. Soon we see a couple of pilgrims ahead. This is really a novelty because we rarely see any others while we walk, even when we leave from the same albergues.  Andy speeds up and is delighted to find it is Anna Rose from Germany and Swift from Denmark. We haven't seen them since Montemarta about two weeks ago. They have been travelling a little slowly because Swift has a sore foot. We walk them to the Xunta Albergue which is at the top of the hill. It looks really nice. I am thinking how nice it would be to stop but we are booked into a Casa Rural, Cada de Casar a few kilometres ahead.  The weather begins to threaten rain after a lovely sunny day so we move off with a sense of urgency. My feet are really complaining when I think about them. Because it is downhill Peter is forging ahead, downhill is his forte. I am the hill queen. At last the Casa is before us ( I am muttering,  'about time, my feet are screaming') and we are a bare 13 kms to go to Santiago tomorrow.
It has been interesting watching the skies today. Usually there are many jet streams in the sky every day but today it has been the planes themselves. We can even see the undercarriage so we know we are close to our destination.
The Casa is very gracious with an illustrious history. We have a room with three beds and I take the third which is a fold away. It is not quite the same luxury to share a room but compared with  a room of 20 bunks it is. We have an ensuite and my goodness a hair dryer! I am not sure how to even use one now after washing my hair in soap for most of the 7 weeks and letting it dry naturally! The shower is hot and I just take my time. Hot water is the greatest luxury that I most appreciate. In Spain where we have stayed, the water is not always well regulated; hot then cold, then hot again or only lukewarm, or limited time. When you get a good shower you really appreciate it. I explore and find a self service coffee machine and home made biscuits which I enjoy.

Andy flaked out in the comfy chairs in the upstairs lounge.

Poza to Silleda

We set off in the rain to go to Oseira to visit the Monastry. It is a Cistercian monastry established in the 1100s by St Bernard and consecrated in 1235 or thereabouts. It was extremely important as it was a centre for administration and enjoyed the favour of the king and many noblemen joined and bequeathed their land to the Monastry. It is one of the largest in Spain. We were intent on getting there before 10 am so we could do the tour. It was a very quick 12kms! Hardly any other pilgrims seem to go there judging by the paths. With all the rain over the last few days the track was a bog or running stream and very rough. The rain made all the vegetation hang low over the track so that even a shorty like me was struggling to pass through or under the shrubbery lining the track.

We had been a bit unsure whether it was worth the effort as it was adding extra kilometres but we were so glad we went. The monastry is very impressive and the tour was so interesting AND in English.

There are only 30 monks there now. In the 1890s the government forcibly acquired the assets of the monastry and it fell into disrepair. The local villagers plundered the stone for their buildings and farmed in the courtyards but in 1926 it was returned to the order and reconstruction took place. In its heyday the monks made Champagne and liqueurs. Apparently some Franciscan monks returned from their mission in Australia(New Norsica in WA?) and brought back some eucalyptus trees thus introducing the species to Galicia, Spain.  The church survived intact as a parish church and it was so elegant and simple, the style designated by St. Bernard. The monastry had a pharmacy and also experimented with eucalyptus as a liqueur.  We all bought some and the jolly monk who had opened the shop gave us some small paintings of Christ that he had done. He is a good artist and was so charming. He learned English working in a boutique in London many years ago. 

Back to the camino track and a farmer told us to take the road because the track was really bad. Not knowing if that would extend our trip we ignored him and continued up the track. It was rough but better than what we had followed to get to the monastry! 

A new marker on the rough track.

We finally get to Castro Dozen and a rather uninspiring Albergue.it is right on the edge of town in a sort of sports complex.  The showers are communal in the women's and we have been told they are cold! The secret tip is to use the disabled shower as it is lovely and hot. As we are almost the first here I hop in quickly and then do some washing. I discover that my liqueur has leaked inside my pack. I have sticky orange stuff over my clothes compression bag. I was it off as best I can and find a plastic bottle to decant into. It is really cold and wet and incredibly blowy. I hang out the clothes and nearly die of exposure in the process. I am wearing my pink icebreaker t shirt I have been wearing as pyjamas and my long sleeved black icebreaker and my windcheaters and my rain jacket and I am still cold.

Once the hostelaria has checked us in at 4:30 we retreat hurriedly to the nearest bar to play cards and wait for dinner which is alarmingly late at 8 pm. The Aussies join us and we play with them too. In the end the dinner table extends to include a French couple, Dominique and Regis who have only been married two years but who met on a past Camino. Regis gives Dominique a flower every day. They are fun and very romantic with each other.  Another pilgrim is German and he sits with us too. It is a very genial evening. Franwyn and Regis do card tricks!

When we return to the Albergue it is full, washing is draped over every heater and our clothes are still damp. While we were playing cards the latecomers have snagged all the drying spots.

Next day we are off to Silleda. We are dressed for the rain again. I get so damp in my gear but without all the layers I am too cold. Our first stop is 12kms and we are desperate for coffee and I order a cheese and tomato bocadilla which turns out to be the best I have had so far. Two Dutch pilgrims join us and order the same. One had slept in the bunk above me last night. They are very pleasant company and completing their third and they say final Camino. They are walking longer days than us and aim to be in Santiago tomorrow. We are taking an extra day. The walk is wet, muddy, uphill more than we thought but through many picturesque tree lined lanes. 

We are all a bit tired and disappointed to find our planned second bar stop is closed and so we retreat to a little general store  to buy some drinks at least. These stores fascinate because they seem to have a little of everything but all look so old fashioned, from the fifties almost.

We meet Franwyn and Almutt on the last turn off into town. Franwyns sole has come off her boot and she really has to throw them out now! They opt for the road while we take the peaceful wooded lanes into town and then make a hasty charge for our per booked accommodation before we get a dump of rain again.  The Albergue Touristico is- you guessed it, upstairs on the second floor! We decide to go to lunch straight away instead of dinner and it is delicious and food and bed together only €16.

The bar is full of men of all ages playing cards with the interesting Spanish cards. They are all playing different games and it is a very lively atmosphere with the television on the football too, of course.

After lunch  Andy goes exploring, I hop into bed surrounded by our washing hung or draped wherever we can to dry off. It has been so wet I have hardly taken any photos the last two days. I do the blog and Peter flakes out before taking a long bath. I am really enjoying bed in the afternoon! Especially if it is wet and cold.

Ourense to Poza

We enjoyed some of the sites of Ourense such as the cloisters, the Lyceo and old building with atmosphere which houses a gentleman's club, the thermal bath right in the centre of town.

The cloisters from 1325c

The men's club 

Really hot water just running out of pipes

The millennium bridge

We left Ourense this morning feeling physically refreshed but mentally challenged.  Andy is leaving Karen again and  so is full of mixed feelings. Peter and I are both  ready to finish too.  It is raining to add to the mix so we are all deep in our own thoughts. We charge out of Ourense and face a continual uphill climb of a couple of hours. 

We pass through some quaint villages and some larger homes on acreage. Soon we plunge into leafy lanes  with old trees. The rain is intermittent and then starts to fall very heavily as we near our destination. We see a flyer for a Casa rural that we hadn't heard off and even though it is 400 metres off the route they offer a decent price for pilgrims €13 with breakfast. As the rain sets in we decide to take this option over the municipal of 40 beds.  We get to the place and no one is there but an old lady comes over and tries to tell us it will be only a few minutes and the owner will come. We ring the number she suggests and he comes very quickly.  It is a delightful place with a great bathroom! We get the three bed room and struggle to converse in Spanish. We eat our jam sandwiches and boiled eggs for lunch washed down with lots of hot coffee.

I am freezing and take first shower to warm up. When I get out of the shower I see this little packet which says hydrating so I tear it open to rub moisturiser but discover I have covered myself with shower gel and need to hop back in the shower! Foreign language  without glasses  can be a problem.
The owner has turned up the heating so the floor is warm and we wash after all because it will dry. The weather deteriorates and  we are glad to be inside.

 Tomorrow is going to be wet again.
Andy has fun ordering dinner over the phone . We wait in anticipation for it to be delivered.
The wifi works and I do some banking and contacting of family. It has been so spasmodic of late and I was getting quite distressed that I couldn't  access my bank account. All is good now.
Our enthusiasm has returned and we are eager to get to Santiago now.

Vilar de Barrios to Ourense 34 km

This morning we don't have to be quiet getting ready to leave as we are the only occupants. It made me smile when I thought that with the whole place to ourselves we were too lazy to spread out. Old habits die hard. Beds furtherest from the loo so you don't get disturbed by the pilgrims who need nocturnal visits. Stick together so you have fewer people to disturb in the morning and you have better space to share and in which to pack. Your bunk is your kingdom!
With the lights on the place feels like a fish bowl,  so i adjourn to the other dorm in the semi dark to dress. I often get half dressed in my sleeping bag.  Talking of sleeping bags, I had been in two minds about posting it home as many places had blankets up to now but in Galicia none of the municipal Albergues have them. What you get are disposable sheet and pillowcase. Most nights it has been pretty cool so I am glad I kept it.
Today is a gentle uphill out of the valley and then steady downhill into Ourense.

 There are many little hamlets (Vende in Spanish) with no bars or shops that we pass through. I keep counting the kms down. In the end we break for morning tea at a fountain in a scruffy square in one of these little settlements. While resting, several people come to the fountain to fill up bottles or buckets of water. It makes us wonder if they have running water in their homes. Most of the towns have wells and fountains which must have been the main water sources originally.
We walk through many farms and a pig farm that you could smell in advance and from which you could hear pigs squealing. We pass old men, always with a stick in hand taking their dogs and themselves for a morning constitutional. It is a lazy Sunday morning until we hear a veritable stampede of walkers, chatting and walking really fast. I think they are a group of Sunday ramblers so we let them pass. I need a loo stop and hop behind a stone wall and growth of blackberries thinking they have all passed. Next minute some fellow coughs and rushes past. I hurriedly get decent and return to the path only to catch him taking a pee! Thundering down behind us are more walkers whose pace is really unsettling. They are all clean and tidy and we speculate on their purpose. Eventually they all pass us and it is quiet and we can settle into our rhythm again. By now we are keen for a coffee break but the only place  open appears to be where the walkers have gone to and they have credencials which they get stamped at the bar. Camino lites! Later we see them get into a bus to avoid the tedious part of walking through the industrial outskirts of Ourense. They would have missed so much of the scenery walking at that pace but we are at the just over 100 kms minimum mark which can be walked to gain a certificate.  It is getting hot now and we still have about 12 kms to go. We are all feeling the slog as we pass through little town after town with Ourense appearing in the valley below but not much closer. Peter is feeling the heat and so we have an ice cream stop at this little bar where the waitress asks where we come from and where we started our Camino. She then appears with a stamp for our credencials telling others we have walked from Seville. We hit the ugly industrial area. Dead rose bushes poke through fences,  weeds and closed factories abound. It seems to go on and on ( I think about the bus travellers with envy). We cross a railway line and finally hit the outer suburbs of Ourense. We are all tired and on dogged auto pilot now. At last we find the address where Karen has hired an apartment through AirB&B for our two rest days. We fall in the door with relief but not as exhausted as our mountain crossing. It is a fabulous little place with three bedrooms and a well appointed kitchen.  Karen has prepared ratatouille and spaghetti with salad for dinner. Delicious. It is a happy reunion and Karen looks great. She has had her hair cut in a funky new style which really suits her and has bought new clothes. She met a couple who run an ethical clothing shop where she bought her new gear and they befriended her and took her to a folk festival on the day we were walking into Ourense.
While Karen's walking pilgrimage has been stymied by her injury, she has had an alternative experience equally as rich  though different to ours. She is a lovely person and while in the end her Camino may have been by bus and train, she has had some interesting experiences and met so many kind people who have been wonderfully helpful. We are all continually impressed by the warmth and generosity of the Spanish people.

Ourense Cathedral 

The number of confessionals suggests a very devout flock. This is only three of the eight that were at each pillar in the main church.

After a long delicious sleep in, cereal and strawberries for breakfast we head off to the famous thermal springs. They are located along the edge of the river and while our initial plan was to get the little tourist train we are told it isn't operating today. We head for the public bus but miss the stop, find ourselves at the roman bridge only to see the train disappear up to the Plaza Mayor. We decide to walk (we are supposed to be having a rest day!?)  and of course it turns out to be further than we thought and the train goes sailing past! Oh well what's a couple of kilometres to us. The weather turns grey and spotty. At last we get to the thermal pools, pay our €5 for two hours of pool hopping. We start inside and move progressively through a series of pools of different temperatures. The weather gets wetter but it is still pleasant feeling the cool light rain on our faces and bodies as we move from pool to pool. Some have jacuzzi bubbles and one bench blows my swimming knickers into a huge bubble like a balloon that I have to press down. After two hours we are all languid and relaxed. No one feels like walking back so we eat and wait for the train.
Karen and I order Japanese ramen noodles. The waitress tells us there is only one available. This happens a lot. The inventory in kitchens doesn't match the offerings on the menu. They are only instant noodles anyway.  Karen has miso soup and I share some if my noodles. We take the train and then settle back into the apartment. I am a bit cold so take to bed with sleeping bag draped over snugly and get waited on by my very kind generous companions. Fruit juice, tea and finally wine. Although I am being Lady Muck I did bring in the washing before I settled down to write this blog.

Laza to Vilar de Barrios 23 km

This morning everyone is up early again but the French group have decided to take a taxi today rather than face another gruelling uphill slog. One has a sore ankle and the other has asore back. The French lady who snores was too exhausted from yesterday and I think without the others she decided a taxi was the go too.
We have our breakfast of muesli yoghurt and juice plus a croissant and set off. After a good nights sleep I feel ready though a little daunted by the description of the path. My mind does a what if and I visualise a struggle but I then get a grip and just take it as it comes. 

.Corn drying on the verandah  our first lot of Horrees- Galician drying boxes

In fact while it is a tough slog uphill with few flat spots it is a spectacular walk. We quickly gain altitude though Peter slips behind. I suddenly hear a step and turn thinking he has caught up but it is the lovely young man from Portugal. He tells me Peter is about 25 mins behind me and we chat for awhile. He is doing the Camino from  the Portuguese border. He did it once before with friends but this time he wants time to think so he is doing it alone. He is pondering religious questions and life. He walks so strongly I feel a twinge of envy.  I catch up with Andrew and we wait for Peter  so we can all walk into Albergueria. Here we find a delightful bar completely covered in pilgrim's shells with names and dates. The guy who owns the bar and runs the Albergue here is a lovely friendly fellow. We order our coffees and write our names on shells, I finally buy a shell for my pack. I have been looking for one since I started and here we are less than 200 kms to the end and I get one.

We continue on and down to Vilar de Barrios which was way below in the valley. The Albergue is another fairly new one and is well set out. This time there are doors on the showers but you need to step out into the public area to dry yourself. It doesn't matter because we are the only people here. We have the whole Albergue to ourselves.  We decide on a menu del Dia lunch and find this little restaurant that hasn't changed for 80 years. It was started by the father of the present manager a dear old lady who cooks us a lovely meal of soup, steak, eggs and chips and dessert with lots of wine, and a glass of house brandy to finish. She is so lovely we can't refuse. She insisted on topping up our wine when I knocked over my glass sending the wine flying onto floor and bench and Andy. We were busy mopping up but she wasn't concerned. Our table was a special table for playing cards with a raised slippery top and indentations on all four sides for chips or money. When I moved my glass to make way for the salad it went flying off the edge. She was like your favourite granny, warm and hospitable and really cheery.  The locals had been in there when we arrived so it had a family feel. Nothing has been spent on the place for years but the charm was priceless.

 Feeling pretty boozy we retreat to the Albergue to write and sleep expecting some other pilgrims.  No one comes, what joy. The pilgrims who took the taxi must have gone much further.  Tomorrow Ourense , but another 34 km downhill walk. Thermal baths here I come.