Calzada de Bejar to Fuenterroble de Salvatierrra 21 km

Today was a mainly flatish walk with beautiful scenery but quite different. The trees are still getting their new leaves and the holdings are much smaller. Farmers walk their small herds of cows out to pasture through town and back again.  

The snowy mountains seem to loom larger and we see other sides with more snow. We walk with French Annie who speaks very good English and wants to come to Australia and NewZealand for a holiday since her son visited there for several months. The expense of flying is always a deterrent for Europeans.
We tried to take a coffee break after about 12 kms but it is Labour day and nothing is open. We sit for awhile and have some snacks we are carrying but then push on to Fuenterroble where we are staying in the parish Albergue. This place is run by the local priest who is quite a character and has encouraged the town to capitalise on the passing pilgrims.  He will take a mass at 7 pm and then we have a light communal meal. This had been our expectation but the English translation on registration didn't convey that impression. We were unaware until later in the day. We have then proceeded to the supermarket called Perregrino and purchased odds and ends for dinner.

We have spent a delightful afternoon at the local bar enjoying lunch with pimentos at last! We were joined by the Dutch ladies and the Danish man. One of the Dutch women, Diana lived in Australia for 6 months  30 odd years ago and had a wonderful time so it was fun to hear her stories of that time.
The Danish fellow, Jan is a gifted masseuse and he offers to ease Peter's foot problems. The whole bar is full of Spanish people playing cards, very loudly and they are making cracks about all wanting massages.  We just whiled away the afternoon talking and joking which was very pleasant.

This Albergue is very interesting with lots of paintings done by a local ( friar tuck type). They have about 6 donkeys which I think they are sending to Jerusalem or have come from Jerusalem. I couldn't  discern which direction from the conversation. They are making carriages also, presumably for the donkeys to pull.

When we go to hang out the washing the friar tuck person tells us not to go too close to the dog because he is a wolf and will bite us if we go too close. He is a fine looking animal but all black with grey around the chin. We are in the group accommodation at the back  while the Dutch and Danish have a 3 bed room. We came too early! The whole place is full of character with bits added on at different times.  The priest takes mass in his church which we attend and then he calls us for a pilgrim's blessing. He talked about the difficult task ahead walking but that what we were doing was worthwhile and said we had God's protection. He seems very committed to assisting the pilgrims on their way and not only helps serve the communal dinner but is up early to serve breakfast. We bought strawberries and fruit for our dinner but never saw them.  I was rather disappointed because they were luscious looking. That is the Camino though. Someone else will enjoy them.
Tomorrow we will walk 28 kms so it is good to have a rest today.