Split 28th to 30th July

My cousin Jan arrived today by local bus 37. She had encountered the same fellow I had at the bus stop who offered her a taxi. She had taken the airport trolley out of the airport area and this fellow insinuated she would get into trouble. A guard who was coming to get the bus turned up and took the trolley back for her and was very helpful so the other guy stopped bothering her. When that fellow approached me I just told him I was getting the bus and walked off. The benefit of having a backpack! 

That night Jan and I explored Split, restaurants (Jan looks at all the menus and what people are eating to get an idea about whether they are good or not) shops (they had a sale on swimsuits for half price and they were great for $30) and some of the sights too. We went up the cathedral tower and were rewarded with a fabulous view of the city.

 Split old town Diocletian square

 The place was buzzing and we eventually ate at a restaurant on the promenade up by all the most fabulous yachts. The food was delicious and the yachts were gorgeous. We looked them up as some were chartered and they cost a mere €440,000.00 a week to rent. As we wandered home we passed by the Diocletian palace square again and it was packed with people listening to music and dancing. There was a real festive feeling in the air. 

The Cathedral square and dancers

The next day we were supposed to tour the blue and green caves, Stavinia Cove, Hvar and then to Pakleni islands. Unfortunately the weather turned so windy that we were unable to enter any of the caves or the cove. We were very disappointed even though the boat journey was exciting. It was so rough we felt like we were riding a roller coaster! We managed a swim in one of the sheltered bays but Jan cut her foot on the rocks. On our return to Split we asked for a refund for the caves as that was the most important reason for us choosing the tour. They said they would let us know and we geared up for a battle. We walked home through the market where Jan bought some reef shoes for the next swim. She wanted pink originally but became distracted by the green, white, black and flouro  orange before settling on the pink! The sales-women was very bemused.  

That night we did the restaurant trawl again until we settled on a place that looked interesting. Jan wanted to try the Aperol Spritz that was on special and is one of her favourite drinks. When the waiter presented us with the drink Jan noticed that it was flat. I haven't had it before so I had no idea what it was supposed to taste like, though I wasn't impressed with the flavour. Jan calls the waiter and tells him it is flat and she thinks they have not used any Prosecco. The waiter gets in a huff and replaces the drinks saying it is the first complaint in 20 days(probably meant years). I thought it must have been a 20 day old opened Prosecco and that was why it was flat, but didn't say so!  We were going to leave but this nice Italain couple sat down and we got talking so decided to stay however the waiter practically ignored us while lavishing attention on the other couple. The Italian woman could see the bar and she told Jan she saw them make other Aperol Spritz drinks with water not sparkling water and Prosecco! We should have left but the Italians were such good company it compensated for the poor service but it was disappointing. Then to compound our less than perfect day I pulled the hair dryer out of the bathroom cabinet and shattered the glass shelf. It was a disconcerting day.

When we met the boss of the tour company Angelo the next morning, he was very accommodating and returned almost half the cost with complete graciousness. We were impressed. It has been a bad summer because the weather has been unusually changeable so these tour people are feeling the impact. 

On our way to the ferry we went to the fresh food market to get fruit and pastries. It had the most wonderful array of high quality fruit and vegetables. We bought delicious peaches like I haven't tasted for years. sweet and full of flavour and juice.

Proof that food less transported tastes best.

We had booked the catamaran to Hvar for 11:30 and as one ferry had already been cancelled I was anxious to get on the next one before any further cancellations. The weather quietened down and our ride was very uneventful and comfortable. The ferry was a huge catamaran.

Krka national park Croatia 27th July

I decided to take a tour to Krka National Park so I would not be seeing Split twice when Jan arrives tomorrow. The tour has about 20 people in a mini bus and about eight are Australians ( mostly young). As we set off the sky is looking dramatically black and the guide keeps hoping that it will bypass us. No way! The heavens open amidst thunder and lightening and we are engulfed in heavy rain. Our trip takes us to Sibernik where there is an outstanding cathedral of St James. It has the shells incorporated into the decoration. The cathedral is unusual because unlike most three aise churches it has a curved roof the complete length of the cathedral.  The building is exceptional also because it is built like Lego in that the blocks of stone sit into each other. It was constructed over 100 years but commenced in the 1500s.

The town is charming but it is so wet we end up exploring only a little and have coffee in a pretty cafe. 

While there I meet two other Aussies Sue and her daughter Annika from Mudgereeba Qld. We get talking and end up sharing the day together. It was delightful to have their company after a few days on my own.

The rain didn't let up even as we entered the park and in fact was even more torrential. By the time we got out we were all wearing the chicest rain ponchos! I had made the assumption it wasn't going to rain in Croatia and had sent all my rain gear home and if it did rain I would just get wet. I would have been miserable without my  poncho. We opted for a lunch in the hope the rain would pass which was a good strategy but meant no swimming. I had fresh trout which was delicious and probably caught from the Krka lakes.

 

The park is beautiful and has the most amazing waterfalls, flora and fauna. The falls are created by the creation of travertine rock which grows from the minerals in the water, it grows slowly like coral in a way. Swimming is one of the big things but though I took my togs my enthusiasm was dimmed by the rain and the temperature of the water. You can't swim under the waterfalls because the volume of water is such that you could break a neck and the turbulence can drown you. Really enticing. The whole park was just roaring with water. 

There are boardwalks to protect the ground and cross streams and falls. We saw lots of fish and even a grass snake in the water. 

 

Croatia was the first place in the world to have hydroelectricity powered town lighting. We saw where they had harnessed the water for electricity, milling cereals and softening woven fabrics. 

 

The hydro powered mill and fabric softener.

The mill wheelsAnnika and some locals!

By the time we finished walking the rain had passed and we returned to Split. Dario the guide gave us a quick history of the war which was fascinating. It highlighted how complex the issues were and how we probably never had sufficient information  in Australia to  make any sense of it. 

Annika and Sue needed to get bus tickets to Dubrovnik so I went along and we then headed back to their apartment at the other end of town for

drinks and nibbles. I left to go home about 10:00pm but there were lots of people around and I felt quite safe.

Caminokath part 3 - Croatia

This is a very different style of travel on this leg of my Adventure. Croatia is a complete unknown to me. I can't speak or read any Croatian, I have very little practical knowledge of this place so I am learning as I go. I did a fair bit of research planning where to go and how to get there, so I have a broad grasp of the history and geography etc. Arriving at the airport was uneventful and, considering the number of tourists Split receives, the airport was quite small. It was about the size of Ballina which was a nice change after walking miles at Madrid and Charles de Gaulle airports! Finding the local bus was easy, though being the only person off the flight to do so was a little surprising. It cost 17 Kuna to go all the way to the terminal in Split which was then about a small block from the apartment I had booked. Perfect. I had no idea however in which direction I needed to go for the apartment once I arrived and I was glad I had reinstated my Australian phone sim so I could call the owner. Tina gave the directions and I saw her in five minutes. I was very relieved. The place wasn't quite ready so I left my backpack and went for a wander. I found a little bar but I was soon rung and returned for the keys to the apartmebpnt.

The old lady who lives across the hall is 90 and is the owners grandmother. She is very jolly and greets me warmly. I greet her with English and Italian which seems to work better. Tina says the grandmother doesn't understand and she is a bit senile but she understands pleasantries and calls me Madame. The place is more a bedsitter or studio than an apartment but it does have a hot plate, sink and fridge as well as a small washing machine.  Luxury for someone who has been hand washing for weeks! Still the price is reasonable for this time of year and it is ten minutes from the centre of town. It is quite a nice building compared to many I have passed which look rather shabby. And it is quiet but convenient.

 Villa Spalatina. My room is the second floor window above the green door on the right.

I spent most of the first day getting washing and phone sorted. I caught up on emails and just got generally up to date.  Even travellers have maintenance and it requires being in one place for awhile without distractions. I went down town for dinner about 5:00 pm. The centre is the port where all the cruise yachts and ferries dock. It was seething with people all hauling suitcases or backpacks and cars waiting to board or disembarking. They are mostly younger travellers and lots of Aussies. It is a very casual sort of place. 

What I have noticed is there are heaps of public toilets with huge WC signs! I think it is very practical and helpful for tourists. Probably to cater for all the people from the boats.The old part of town is very busy with tourists, most of whom are just here for a few hours or a day. The cobblestones or rather flagstones are worn shiny by all the years of use.  The stone in the buildings is very light cream but it doesn't look like sandstone. 

 Diocletian Palace 

 On the promenade

The next day I slept in and then skyped home. It is hard when you are with other people to find the right time which is usually 9am to lunch time here. It was good to see and talk with every one and reassure Mum. I am feeling a bit homesick now so I know I will be ready to return at the end of the month. 

I went exploring the town again and took a bus ride around Split and it's surroundings. 

It is very hot so walking isn't entirely desirable. I have booked a tour of the Krka National park for tomorrow. Jan doesn't arrive till Monday so I am saving the fullI depth exploration till she arrives. I have scoped the ferry timetables for our next stop and generally feel good about everything. I decided not to go out for dinner as I had a large late lunch and so found the little supermarket and stocked up on yoghurt and fruit for tea. I have also discovered a delicious camomile tea which I am having instead of coffee! The yoghurt is  runny but has a good flavour and not sweet. Delicious. It is more economical to buy my own food and with the fridge and stove I can make tea and my own breakfast.

Dax France 22-24 june

Yesterday I left the Lim family in Kent after a more cleaning up around the Farm. These weddings at home are a lot of work! Kathleen and the girls were tireless. Eileen had wracked up a lot of miles picking us up and dropping us off at various places; Gary had to be driven to Dover because the station at Sandwich was unexpectedly closed due to rail track works. I was dropped at Ashford International station on Monday to catch the Eurostar to Paris while cousin Kate got the Metro to London. Thanks to all the family for making it a lovely chance to catch up with everyone at once.

 How easy to get to Europe without stamping in! The train was very comfy and the transfer to Gare Austerlitz easy as I took a taxi. It cost a small fortune but in the end it was worth it. I had plenty of time though got a bit distressed when I couldn't print boarding pass. I didn't have to anyway as it turned out because I had printed the e-ticket! The couchette was very comfy but I was on top bunk.

 I slept soundly for a couple of hours then I started to get scared I would oversleep the Dax stop as the trains only stop for a short time at any stations. The end was Irun for the train way past Dax.  In the end the train didnt go through to Dax as there was a train accident and the signals were out. I had to transfer to another train which meant I was two hours late. Michel had come back three times to see if  I felt really bad to have caused so much trouble and in future will always take  a phone number and address. However they do not live far from the station and we were home in about 15 minutes. 

Monique and Michsel are just the same and our "connection" just as strong. I felt very easy with them both. The language barrier is not an issue and we manage to converse quite easily. It was a delight to meet their grand-daughter Emma who spoke English. She is holidaying with her grand-parents.  After a magnificent lunch I actually took a small siesta because I was tired from the train trip. Later we played a dice game with Emma but then took a walk around the Lac de Christus a picturesque lake that has several walking and bike trails surrounding it.

I am not going to keep off the kilos with all this great food. Monique is as thin as ever but so strong. She runs every morning and is ever busy. Dax is a very pretty town founded in Roman times. There are thermal springs here so it has a reputation for healing. 

This area is called Landes and stretches from the ocean to inland. There are lots of walking tracks in the area and Michel showed me three packets of leaflets with all the walks. The presentation was excellent and I thought it would be a good way for Victoria to promote the walks in the state.

It is hot and when we get home we looked at Michel's photos of the Camino del Norte. I feel inspired because it is so beautiful walking by the sea. They said they were the only pilgrims on the track most days. This time they stayed at a lot of pensions and hotels because it was almost as cheap as the albergues. It did rain most of the time however which was disappointing. Monique lost both her parents this year and so walking the Camino helped her grieve.

Next morning I experienced a real French breakfast with coffee in bowls not cups!

  Check out the cups!

Monique took me to the Calesio thermal pools for a relaxing swim in hot water and bubbles followed by a sauna. I felt like a limp rag I was so relaxed. We then had a tradional French lunch of entre, main course, cheese and salad followed by dessert. Then we went out to explore the town. There are hot springs,a bull ring and cathedral of course. The river is not wide but does flood occasionally. On the banks they have sheep grazing to keep grass down, while on the other side they have a park of sorts but it is timber platforms with deck chairs and bright umbrellas. It looks so festive.

  Bull jumping festival in Bull ring is a five day fiesta.

 Scalding hot water.

Michel has been learning the saxophone. He loves Duke Ellington and Jazz.

 It was a fun visit with such welcoming and warm people. Longer stay next time.

The wedding of Kirstyn and Will 19th July

G

What a lovely wedding. Lots of lovely hats; even yours truly donned a fascinator of cream net and feathers. It posed a challenge getting in and out of taxis but otherwise did the job.

A bitt of anxiety prior to the wedding when we lost Gary who was to share the taxi with us from Sandwich to the Church, St Nicholas -at-Wade. He had gone off to get insoles for his new shoes and we somehow missed his return to the agreed meeting place, Salvation Inn.  After a turn around town we were about to abandon him when the taxi driver suggested one more return to the Salvation Inn and lo and behold he was there. 

 

 Gorgeous hats everywhere

 Lim and Leong family

We all gathered in the church taking photos until Kirstyn  arrived with Martin her father. Kathleen, mother of the bride looked so elegant in a deep rose silk jacket and printed skirt.

             

 Kathleen and half of Akiko in pink.

 Poppy, mother of the groom was replendent in navy and white. She wore a fabulous navy and white hat that had been her own mother's. Poppy is one of those amazing, capable, competent and gracious English women. She worked tirelessly before and after the wedding and always with a smile. Kathleen was no less amazing so it was a fantastic team effort. 

The wedding reception was in the marquee and all our florals decorations made it look so pretty. 

The weather was kind in that it didn't rain until we sat for dinner. Everything went like clockwork. The speeches were short but excellent and from the heart. I danced most of the evening but left at midnight just when the shot bar opened!

Next morning Gary left and I moved across to the farm to stay an extra night and help with the clean up.

Sandwich kent

Today I was out at Updown Farm with the whole extended family helping with the set up for the wedding tomorrow. It was very hot, 29 C. We spent most of the day making up jars of flowers to go on the tables. They looked so pretty and it was so nice to be involved in the preparations. Everyone was doing something. The marquee looked fantastic and as rain is predicted, essential.

View to marquee

In the afternoon Kirstyn  had organised a nail technician to come to do fingers and toes so I decided to get mine done. Toes were dark purple and fingernails mauve. These are the colours of my dress. The nail technician was so lovely and did a great job. What a treat.

Then we stocked the fridge van with drinks to chill for tomorrow. Wheelbarrowing packs of bottles across the field as a smooth team was fun. These young people are working so hard to make the day special and fun. It will look amazing.
Later I played scrabble with Brendon, Krysten's cousin. I haven't seen him for a couple of years.That was fun and I got to have a good talk to him. Itis good to see him more confident and happy with himself. After the dress rehearsal we went into Deal to the Three Compasses restaurant. It is right opposite the beach from which you can see to France. The food was delicious and very reasonable. We made up the 'overseas' contingent. Eileen and Brendon from Hong Kong, Gary and I from Australia, Michelle from Canada.
While at the restaurant the sky's started to rumble with thunder and flash with brilliant lightening. The heavens opened and the rain fell. Hope the wedding is dry!

Last days at Little Logaston

 

Monday I went on a magical mystery tour of WET Wales. My friend Peter was taking his friend back to Wales and invited me along for the ride. Matt lives in South Wales at Bridgeend near Cardiff and Swansea and I haven't been there so I jumped at the chance. We set off late and the weather was sunny in Heredfordshire but as soon as  we entered Wales it started to drizzle, then the clouds came down and it just rained - the whole time. It was very atmospheric to say the least. We went over the mountains for the best view! Lots of grey cloud and rain. Villages looked all grey and huddled together. It was a bit grim. 

 

A little excitement when a sheep ran across the road from one grazing area to the other.  After dropping Matt off at his place we turned around and started the return journey. Because we were talking so much we kept missing the turn offs and added some extra miles to the drive! At one stage we went up the freeway to find our side was closed and there was a diversion sign we didn't see so we went round the round-about  missed the alternate turnoff and were back at the no through sign again. This time we DID see the diversion sign. Peter did say that his sense of direction isn't great and that is why Andy had the maps on the Camino. I could see his point! He had driven this route frequently in the past. We needed petrol and a loo stop by now but the petrol station we pulled into  had none. Argh!

Anyway salvation came in an Indian restaurant next to the petrol station. It didn't look as if it was open but Peter checked  and it was. Relief. It looked quite flash but was empty at 7:00 pm.  It was a Monday night after all. Much to my surprise the food was really delicious. We set off again and this time there were no wrong turns but it was still raining until we entered Herefordshire. 

Last walk in Herefordshire

Today is my last day at Andy and Karen's place. Andy needs to check the route of a walk he is leading for a walking festival in September so we decide on a quick 8 km excursion. That means we are not stopping to take photos or admire the view, think fast walking on my part!  The weather is overcast but not cold. Good for a brisk walk. We walk through a field where I hear this rather strange rushing noise and when I turn around it is a mob of cattle running with us. When we srop they stop and stare. When we resume they resume running with us. I was a bit unnerved but  Andy said they were just curious and sure enough they just turned a few minutes later and took off to the other end of the field.

 The curious cows

All goes well until the path seems to disappear. We go up a hill to scout the area flushing several sheep from the bracken in which they have been concealed. There is no wood as expected so we return to the lower end of the hill and plunge into a path of bracken. It is so tall Andy nearly disappears and of course I do. It conceals head height thistles and stinging nettles as well as a few blackberry bushes. By the time we walk out at where a stile is in the fence indicating this is the way, our arms are tingling from nettle sting. I am wearing short sleeves of course. It feels  a bit like sunburn, not painful just tingling. The walk organisers will need to clear this part of the public path!

 The bracken track

 Andy walking ahead of me in the bracken track.

We get home without further incident and get ready for dinner at Jules in Weobley. I am taking everyone to dinner as a thank you for having me stay. The food is fabulous and they have lots of great vegetarian options as well as meat dishes.

By the end of dinner after, Cornish mussels, pork in cider and gooseberry pie, followed by white nectarines and raspberries with mango sorbet I can hardly walk. 

 

I am not used to such big meals now. This is a fabulous restaurant. With all the food and after the vigorous walk I am really tired. Oh well. Not much to pack as I am back to a backpack. Andy and Karen present me with a Tshirt  that has" Mad dog tours and  its Latin motto is, no repeat customers." Andy's nick name is Mad Dog.  I am privileged to be received into the club. I will be sad to leave the Logaston crew. 

Ledbury poetry Festival 12 th July

Today Karen and I attended a reading at the Ledbury poetry festival. It was by two women, a Brit of Nigerian  and Irish herítqge and an Aussie of Aboriginal heritage. The poetry was very powerful and evocative of the difficulties experienced as a person of  mixed race.  The British poet was Bernadine Evaristo who read from her semi autobiographical verse novel Laura. She was brilliant and is very active in promoting publication of  work by people of colour. Ali Cobby Eckermann is a survivor of the 'stolen generation' and her poetry is still filled with the anguish of her lost family and a bitterness towards white Australia. I felt quite uncomfortable actually and embarrassed that I had no knowledge of her work. Her poetry is straight to the heart. We had a lot of discussion about the issues experienced by indigenous Australians afterwards.
While enjoying a cup of tea we encountered some of Karen's Buddhist friends and got talking about the Camino and my experience. Maria a budding poet working on her first book was quite keen to hear about it. I always under estimate people's interest and worry that I am a bore but I feel encouraged to write up my trip more seriously.
Karen is involved in re-establishing a library in a renovated building at the Adhisthana Buddhist Centre so we went across to see how the  installation of the shelving was progressing and to speak with the person in charge of the library. The Centre is in an old Georgian era farmhouse and stables.  The library building won an architectural award and has a beautiful half circle roof and full height windows in two rooms. The books are sheltered in side rooms. It is going to be gorgeous when it is finished. The Centre was running a silent retreat for women over the week ahead so there were lots of women around having their last talk before silence decends!
Next was a stop at the Eastnor Castle country fair. They had massive jumping castles, lots of marquees and clay pidgeon shooting. How English! It was quite late and we decided the entrance fee was too expensive for the time left.

They run this fair over two days and also run the castle as a deer farm as well as offering camp sites. It seems all business opportunities are being explored to keep the castle viable.
We then managed to fit in a stop at a church that used to run its own ale house in the Middle Ages to raise money for the church. Very enterprising. It was a lovely black and white Elizabethan era structure. A precedence for All Saints in Hereford that has a coffe shop in the back of the church and runs services in the front half. It was a very satisfying day.

Andy and Karen were going out to a function that was connected to his work on the Housing Board so I got stuck into packing or rather unpacking my bag to lighten my load back to a backpack for tripping around Croatia. It was like putting on an old friend. I am posting excess gear home but will be sad to see my sleeping bag go. It is like a security blanket! I won't need it because we are staying in hotels and apartments-luxury for a pilgrim.

Ledbury and Logaston

This evening we have the book launch at the poetry festival in Ledbury so we are heading off early to pick up glasses and wine and get them to the Shell gallery. Andy has a meeting in another town so Karen and I will have some time to look around the shops in Ledbury and I have booked a haircut and colour because my streak has faded to pale pink! It is quite expensive at £70 but I need it.
There are quite a lot of quality shops in this town and it is fun to look but I am not really in the mood to buy anything. We need a jug to make the elderflower cordial so browse some of the op shops In the hope of picking up something useful. To my delight I find part 2 of book three of Game of Thrones so I am wrapt because I have just finished part 1 of Book three. I bought it in Santiago when I saw it and decided I had time to read and I couldn't wait till I got home to continue the series! This issue is in perfect condition and  only cost a £1.50. A bargain.
Karen and I have lunch in a cute little cafe up a lane and then make a booking for an early tea at the Horseshoe Inn opposite the gallery. It is very quaint with low ceilings and scrubbed floors.
The hairdresser is a bright young woman and gets what I want done to my hair. She hasn't  thought of doing just a streak before as most people want an all over colour. It looks great and my hair has loved being washed with real shampoo instead of soap. Nothing like a visit to the hairdresser to make you feel glamorous. We all meet up for dinner and then cross to the gallery to set up. I take charge of the drinks and nibbles while Andy mans the book sales and Karen acts as MC. The place is packed before we know it and I can't even move from the table/ bar.

  

We close the front door of the gallery so the poetry readers can be heard more clearly. There are six different readers which makes for an interesting evening. Andy sells 44 books and everyone is very happy.
Next day we are all a bit slow to move but we need to rake up the paths that have been whipper snipped in the wood to make it easier for Andy's neighbour to mow them. It is quite a large area and the day is delightfully warm so I get into my old walking gear and set to the task. From bar attendant to farm worker in one smooth move. I raked a lot of paths.

  Mole hill

 It was quite satisfying to be so physically active again. I have been a bit lazy with raspberry picking, book deliveries and sweeping the floor my most strenuous activities unless we've been for a walk.  We also have to smooth out the molehills otherwise it is very bumpy for the ride on mower. The moles in the wood  stick their noses up out of the dirt and leave little piles of dirt everywhere in the paths. I have yet to actually see a mole but I have been told they are quite small. I always thought they were large animals. Blame TheWind in the Willows children's story!
Karen's parents have come visiting and say they feel like they have got to know me through Karen's blog! It is a bit disconcerting but then we certainly feel like old friends because I've heard about them from Karen too! After my exertion and lunch I hit the couch to read but doze off. It is siesta time after all. Another delightful day in the country. It is lovely having this interlude because I have been on the move for so long and Croatia will be busy too.