Aldeaneuvo del Camino to Calzada de bejar 22km

Our lovely hostel filled up very quickly yesterday and I had the last arrival on the bunk above. He made lots of noise turned on the lights and then went out when we were all trying to go to sleep. It happens. I have been a late entrant when others are asleep but I have tried to just sneak into bed as quietly as possible. We think it was his wallet I found on the floor this morning when we were leaving.

Looking back over Banos de Montemayor

We set off for Calzada de Bejar and today we left the region of Extramadura and entered the region of Castille y Leon.  Everything changed quite dramatically. The signs changed from hito boxes with the Caparra arch to neat yellow triangles on wooden poles. There is a lot made about the Roman roads and roman milestones are frequently along the path. Also the sign for the Via de la Plata is different. We are climbing into the mountains now and the trees and terrain are so different. 

New signs

The area seems reminiscent of Galicia with stone houses rather than white rendered homes. The farms seem much smaller and the livestock is less numerous. It was really lovely walking through dappled sunshine under trees and down country lanes lined with the inevitable stone fences.

This was a gorgeous spot with roman road over a beautiful stream. Perfect for a camping weekend. Note the stones marking the road side on the right.

Before that part we had to walk along the main road on and off but it wasn't busy. Biggest issue for me was finding a private spot for a pit stop. Peter jokingly tells me not to fall in a ditch and walks on. Well I Dash into the only side lane with reasonable cover and just as I disrobe my foot slips into a hole and I go over like a beetle  on its back. ( I don't usually remove my pack). Well what a dilemma. I have to roll onto my knees to get upright and in the process a couple of cars pass by. My only consolation is that they saw my backside and not my face! With dignity in shreds I get upright and dressed. And head off once again, making sure all passing traffic is gone. You have to laugh but I know Irene knows how I felt. Without further mishap I catch the guys and we stop for hot chocolate in Banos de Montemayor.  Later as I trundle up the roman road that leads out of town I lose one of the stoppers off my stick.  It has managed 448kms so I won't complain. One of the little 2€ shops will have a replacement.
I packed my bag differently today and by the time we are nearly at our destination I have a cramp in my side. I check that I am not having a heart attack and then shuffle the pack around on my back a little and the cramp eases. I haven't had this before so it is being packed the usual way in future. We reach the Hostal Soraya and meet up with the Aussies and others we haven't seen for a few days.  We eat lunch today because the dinners are so huge and we can't sleep. This is an old town but very small and not much happening.

 The bunks are squashed in at the Hostal and I am sleeping cheek by jowl with a Spanish cyclist tonight. I felt a bit uncomfortable about him but he seems okay after I have spoken with him. The Hostal owner has two cute dogs. One is a puppy and looks like a little bear. I just love it. 

Passport and money retrieved

Just to reassure you all my passport and money were retrieved with the help of my hostelaria. In the end I had got my passport and had an opportunity to visit Plasiance and buy a new charger. A negative day proved very successful. The Spanish were so honest and kind and expected nothing for their efforts despite me offering. I find them very impressive. 

Carcabosa to Caparra Arch - Asturias 19 km

All my worst nightmares occurred today. I left my passport and money in the Hostal Elena we stayed in last night. I only realised when we went to book into our new place at Asturias. We rang and the lady had found it but I have to wait all day before the owner of this place can take me back to collect it. I am trusting the money will all be there as I have found the Spanish very honest but it is the passport that really concerns me. I am in a state of anxiety waiting. Sylvie a French friend who speaks Spanish is coming with me. I have a routine with the sleeping bag and dressing that means it is securely with me but last night no bag and a different routine this morning and I completely forgot it. A new lesson (no 7?). Double check before you set off anywhere that you have everything. 

We had a lovely meal last night in a little restaurant the Swallows in English. Judging by the curiosity of the locals who came to  talk to us and find out where we were from, they usually don't get pilgrims there.  I ended the meal with a milk pudding and honey. It was really light and refreshing and the guys had whiskey cake. They brought out a torte like cake and then poured a huge glug of whiskey over it. The guys said it was great!

We walked to the Arc de Caparra the last roman arch remaining of a once important city that marked the crossroads of east and west and north to south in roman Spain. There are substantial excavations of what is left but the arch has been on all our way markers in Extramedura region.
the walk was wonderful through verdant pastures filled with cows and calves, beautiful trees, glimpses of snow on the surrounding ranges and lovely mellow sunshine. We went through lots of paddocks with cows and sheep. We came into one paddock with a large bull over by the fence. I said to Andy that the bull looked a bit frisky so I walked up close behind Andy for protection. The bull turned and stared at us but we just walked steadily towards him and he suddenly took fright and galloped off to the rest of the herd, even getting a fright when he saw a stork in his path.  Not very dignified for a bull but I was happy. 

I love my bottle Kim!

I started to get tired just as the arch finally came into view. The site of it through the trees lifted my spirits and I started to charge on but it took what seemed ages to finally reappear.  It was so spectacular that I was eager to go on to the interpretation centre supposedly 200 metres further on. These Spanish measurements seem a bit elastic to me because when we get to the road a more formal sign indicates 500 metres. Undeterred we walk UPhill and round the bend expecting any moment to be enjoying ice cream or coffees. To our immense disappointment the centre is closed on Mondays!

As we turn to rejoin others we passed who are waiting for a pickup from the Asturias Hostal the van arrives and stops to pick us up. Peter has been feeling stiff and tired today so he is eager for the lift and a shorter day too. The driver takes us to the Hostal. It is not on the Camino  and is in reality a truck stop on the highway! We are glad of the lift anyway but then when we get here we realise pilgrims are a way of making extra money because you would never walk here otherwise. This entrepreneur fills his rooms with pilgrims while the dining room is full of truck drivers. The food is good anyway. I lunch with Sylvie because I an hungry and want to stick with her until I get the passport back.  I have a room on my own again with an ensuite so I wash my hair and try to keep calm. At least the wifi is good here.

I was thinking how funny I must look. My knickers are stretching and I have lost weight so they come up over my trousers and my trousers are slipping down my slimmer hips. I look like a teenager with my undies showing. Fortunately I wear my tops out so this disparity in my dress isn't terribly obvious! 

Riolobos to Cascarbosco

Today we are walking only 23 kms but along roads which are hard on the feet. The countryside is intensively farmed and we pass several farmers up early working. That doesn't seem to happen too frequently as far as we have seen. I am trying to keep the mindset that today is a country stroll. We are in recovery mode from yesterday.  There are lots of large brick barns along this route.

 We come across a huge bank of solar panels. They look amazing and in the background on the horizon is the old town of Galisteo. It is famous for its Muslim built medieval fortress. The juxtaposition is intriguing. We take a break here and walk the walls. 

We loved the serpent on the clock tower.

The stairs are so steep we feel insecure with our backpacks as we go up and down. 

We head off now for the next small village about 5 kms along. We take another quick stop. When I try to order water the bartender looks shocked. Not much water drunk at this bar! Now we are on the homeward leg to Cascarboscos only another 5 kms along. We are feeling tired still. Peter has picked up a stick to give his knee some relief.  We opt to stay at the private Albergue Eleni. The grandmother takes us up and we get the three bed and ensuite room.  She says rest, rest come to the bar later to pay.
We cruise around to find the exit route for tomorrow. I discover my charger plug has died! I have only had it a month and it was Swiss too. I will run out of charge soon and have to bot a charger from one of the other pilgrims. The blog might stop for a couple of days. We stumble across a hardware store that isn't really open. The owner has a leak in the roof but invites us in and try's really hard to help me but to no avail. Back to the leak but not before wishing us Buen Camino. The Spanish are so helpful.

We see snow on the mountains. No wonder it is cold. We have to cross the hills in the next couple of days. The albergue fills up with Dennis, Peter and the Swiss girl and the French. We are forming friendships.

Alcantara to Riolobos

There was a rush by some of the French pilgrims to get started in the dark today. Some are anxious to get a bed tonight I think as Dennis said every place they have stayed up to date has filled. We haven't had that experience but with our rest days the surge has caught us. The next stage is quite confusing because the route has been changed. As a result there are some options of doing a medium day or a long day. Canaveral no longer has accommodation other than a bar restaurant, the Malaga so we will be walking on. We decide to go into town anyway for cafe con leche and then decide our destination. Once we hit the church we can't see any arrows. While we look around Peter sees a shop open, it is nearly 10.00 am and it is one of the little Spanish stores that has everything you can think of . A real mixed business, they are treasure troves. Peter is looking for a poncho substitute as his is too small and his arms get wet. He has already bought a kids size 12 rain coat because the little Chinese girl who served us spoke such excellent English and was so helpful when her parents hadn't a clue that he felt he had to  but it is too small of course. Anyway the lady shop owner finds a men's rain jacket and pants for him!€8 and he is set.  I ask her for directions to the nearest bar and the Camino route. She is so helpful. I love the way Spanish people are so kind and pleasant.

Roadworks we passed that have been going for a few years. Lots of bridges half finished.

Fortified with coffee we set off again. 11kms down and maybe 20 more to go according to my GPS.
We meet up with Niko and his minder. We had lost touch after the convent. We greet him warmly and  he offers his hand for a handshake. This is huge. Niko is on a community service order. He was abandoned by his mother and was living on the streets, running with the wrong crowd, not going to school, doing drugs and probably petty thieving to survive.  He got into the system and showed a desire to change his life, to finish school etc.  An organisation in conjunction with the German government has given him the opportunity to walk the Camino as a way of rehabilitation. When we first met him he was so wary and never spoke or smiled at us( boring , judgemental adults he assumed) but we have all warmed to him and wish him well. Our German friend Katharina, asked if she could interview him and record his story. He agreed and he was happy to share it with us. Since then he has always greeted us and I think he feels some of the acceptance that can be a special part of the Camino.
We have decided to aim for   Riolobos  and start up a really steep hill. Fortunately it is short but a grunt. Then we seem to be on a plateau that undulates through pine forests, then beautiful oaks, cork  trees and acres of rock rose bushes as tall as me. It seems like we have fallen out of the world into a fabulous garden. 

We pass through numerous gates and happen upon a herd of black shaggy goats all rushing towards us. Their bells are donging and they scatter around us. There would easily be 100. Next it is fabulous pasture for big black Aberdeen Angus type cattle. We are clocking up the distance but it seems like kilometres to go. Lots of yellow arrows as we pass the turn off to Grimaldi. Now we are committed whatever the distance.  On we go through bogs and creeks and more fabulous country strewn with wild flowers and  herds of animals. 

Taking a break for refreshment of yoghurt and apple tarts.

This time we disturb a rather mean large cow with very sharp horns.  She just stares but doesn't look happy. Now we are starting to feel the distance. I estimate another ten kilometres at least and my legs are feeling weary. The sky is ominous and we continue to have misty showers that make us damp but we are so hot the water evaporates. Plenty of yellow arrows but still no idea of distance. Finally we see the turn off to Riolobos. It is a pretty lane edged with stone fences rather like Galicia but all I can think about is how much longer. If I stop it is like a machine you need to wind before it gets momentum to keep spinning so I don't stop! The village starts to appear but still seems ages away. At last we hit town and ask a bar owner where the Casa Rural Abuela Maxi is. It has the most rooms of the two places we can stay.  The bar owner walks through his back door which makes us scramble to follow and he actually walks us to the street! We must look so wretched! At the door of the Casa there is a note that the owner is out and we need to ring. I haul out the phone and summon my paltry Spanish to request 'habitation for tres persona'. She arrives shortly after to find me sitting on the ground legs outstretched at her front door.

She is gorgeous and there are two rooms. A single and double with two beds. When I explain we are amigos but solo she gets it and I get the single room, the guys share the double.  She is amazed we have walked 32 kilometres today.
We all collapse onto our beds. It is heaven. No sharing showers with hordes and wifi that works. I have been struggling with the wifi for the last few days. We all shower, wash clothes in a machine
(again, we are spoiled) and go to bed for awhile.  Later Andrew brings a cup of tea. What a treat. Now off to the kind bar owner for a pre dinner drink and investigate before returning for tea at the Casa rural. Our hostess arrives at 8:00 pm with our dinner and some friends who speak English so we know exactly what to do for breakfast and dinner.  She has included a home baked tortilla and delicious salad in our fee,  as well as fruit and dessert.  It is such a lovely touch that we get to meet her friends and she was sure we understood everything. This place is highly recommended by us. She kissed us all and wished us buen Camino as we will leave early again tomorrow.

Caceres to Alcantara

Caseres to Alcantara

I had a restless night. Too much wine and talk? I get up early to have a shower. Lesson number4(?) no hot water in the morning! Fortunately it was just lukewarm so I wasn't frozen. Peter and I pack bags and head down to breakfast. Andy and Karen appear. The plan is that Karen takes a bus to Salamanca and we will meet her there in ten days.The extra rest should mean her knee will be healed so she can rejoin the walk. It is cold but a pleasant walk through rolling pastures and we get to Casar de Carceras. We walk past a post office that is even open which is exciting so we go back later to buy stamps for our postcards. The guy was so helpful. Then we set off for the supermarket for provisions. Tomorrow's walk won't have any places to get lunch or even coffees. That is what is so different from the other Camino: larger towns but far fewer along the way.  The municipal albergue has only Juan the enigma and us but fills up quickly. It is a completely new group of pilgrims and an Aussie from Caulfield south!  I met Dennis in Seville before I left but he hadn't remembered. He knows my name because he has met Katharina and she has given him my blog. I feel rather embarrassed. I am in my sleeping bag because I am cold and don't want to do any washing. We are having trouble getting wifi so the blog has to wait. Later three other Aussies arrive who come from Gippsland, they also know my name and blog through Katharina. One I later learn is Almutt like the German friend we have just left in Caceres. what a small world. 

It is funny because I was feeling a little like orphans as we had left Karen, and several of our travelling companions have gone on ahead or left at Caceres, then when we got a surge of new (to us) pilgrims I was full of mixed feelings. It is interesting observing the dynamics of people making new friends. There is a group of French travellers who are not making much effort to be friendly, while the Germans are always friendly, probably because more speak English. The Aussies are friendly and a bit concerned about the route because they have an old guide book but are getting on well.   

We walked off early today and while it was chilly, the light was beautiful. The little birds sit on the fence till the last minute and there are lots of sheep and cows. The tinkle of bells around the necks of sheep and cattle is such a pleasant sound in the quiet of the country. There are hills in the distance and then we see the water of the lake and our Albergue is situated here. The last 7 kms seem tough on the highway but eventually it appears and it is very pleasant. We take a room for four and invite a Dutch pilgrim to join us but after we are settled we have to move and end up in a room with two of the Aussie women.  The day is cool but sunny and the Albergue washes our clothes for free! What luxury. We take a stroll round the lake edge and find a place with a whimsical fence of churches made in concrete instead of normal pillars.

Valdesalor to Caceres

Today was a quick walk into Caceres. Andy was eager to see Karen who has been at Caceres for a couple of days resting her knee. We made the 11 kms in about two hours and charged into the old city. This place has lots of medieval buildings in good condition and the old city reminded me of Sienna. After catching up with  Karen and discovering her knee is still not healed we headed off to explore the old city. It is really quite marvellous. By 2 pm though they are locking doors so Peter and I head for some lunch and then a siesta. It has turned cold and I feel a bit miserable. It is okay for walking but not much fun sightseeing in the rain and wind  I am definitely learning to relax on this Camino. I love my bed or sleeping bag. We meet up about 7 pm for drinks in the square and meet Mr enigma the pilgrim Juan who has us all mystified. He says he is walking but we never see him in front of us or behind. We also reunite with Almut the German pastor we met in Torremeija. She is finishing her Camino today and will return to continue in the autumns. She has suffered shin splints this time and has found the walking hard.  We all go to dinner together to a wonderful restaurant which is more upmarket than our usual pilgrim haunts and the food and waitress are amazing. It cost us 20€ each including wine but the atmosphere, food, and service was worth every penny. They had vinyl records as placemats.
It was a wonderful evening and we missed the goings on in the square. It is St George's day and they have celebrations to reenact the recon querying of the city with the help of St George.
It is nearly midnight- very late for a pilgrim.

Our room in Caceres

Her first communion

A view across the roof tops

Alcuesar to Valdesalor

 

Staying at the convent Casa de Beneficienia  was an interesting experience. The convent is locked between 2 and 3;30 pm. After we had hung out our washing and got caught in a massive downpour my enthusiasm for exploring the town evaporated and I preferred to retreat to my sleeping bag and get warm and rest. Andy discovered he was locked in so spent the time reading while Peter and I snoozed. He eventually went exploring after the doors were unlocked. The town was closed due to Easter Monday. We found the church for Mass which was not in the building we were in but a hostel for disabled and old people across the courtyard. In my search I stumbled on a very lavish chapel with an amazing Virgin Mary set in an elaborate silver throne. I took the sacrament and we later were called up by the priest after the usual comgregation had gone.   He blessed us  and prayed for our journey on the Camino. Actually it was very poignant and he gave us all a sheet In our language. We then went to the communal dinner. It was a simple meal. The soup looked like it had worms but it was actually bread in a tomato based soup. The next course was pork and salad which was pleasant followed by the most delicious pears.  The best part was  that we had to help with the washing up and it was total chaos with 20 pilgrims all fighting to wipe a plate. I ended up,as the smallest person, passing plates and cups to the waiting group. It was hilarious and everyone thought it was a huge joke trying to get a plate or spoon  before someone else.  Then we retired but felt too awake so we played cards for a while. The guys taught me a game called knock out whist where if you get knocked out you have to bark for a card. The other pilgrims thought we were rather odd. The hostelaria  reminded us that we needed to be up and ready to leave soon after 7:00 am.

Sure enough he was in the room turning on the lights in the morning and we were gone by 7:30 am. We trundled across the road to a bar and had cafe con leche and chocolate croissants.  I started to feel a bit odd in the tummy. Last night's soup?

As we walked out of town we were rushed by these  two dogs, one of which was almost as big as me. A St Bernard cross  with a mastiff or a horse! I held up my sticks and the guys yelled at them. It is the first time I have been bothered by dogs in Spain. Mostly they are benign or super friendly.

After that it was plain sailing to the next small town where we hoped to get a drink. Not a thing open and it was 9:30 am. As we walked out of town we saw a night club of all things- a dubious looking place . We decided they must have all partied the night before.  The next town was 16 kms and Peter and I said we needed to stop for juice and lunch even though it was only 11:00 am . We walked off the Camino route to this little place and went to Los Vegas restaurant, excellent fresh made tortilla bocadilla and fresh juice. Eventually we came to Valdesalor. 27 .5 km but feeling pretty good.  Municipal Albergue  right on edge of town. Clean un fussy. Shower window opens to the world! We used the washing machine, what luxury. Town pretty sparse. Andy and I played cards all afternoon on delicious olives and a rough red then went to dinner feeling a bit light headed. A nice restful day . Only issue is that I am down to three euros and we haven't gone past a bank or hole in the wall for three towns. I am now dependent on my Camino friends after paying for my bed at the albergue. Next town is Caceres and there will be a bank as it is large. 

The convent

Roman milestone

Valdesalor Municipal Albergue

Aljucen

Coming in to Aljucen this small village procession was winding its way up with the risen Christ statue. They were singing and wished us buen canino. The priest gave us a card with the Virgin and blessed us. 

We farewelled Karen today as she is going on to Carceras by train to rest a torn ligament. Yesterday she went to the hospital to get help with her knee and the diagnosis was a torn ligament and rest was required.  Peter, Andy and I set off  and walked through beautiful rolling pasture with wild lavender, yellow and white wild flowers. We are heading for the hot thermal springs town of Aljucen. It is an easy walk but no breakfast till about 10.00 am. We wander past an ancient dam created by the Romans in the first or second century and it is still being used to supply Merida.
Peter nearly cleans up a cyclist. Not as many as the Camino Franes but still they wush up behind you and give you a fright.

We get into town by 12:00 and the hospitalaria insists I have a room on my own ( girls room) but by the time the Albergue fills up I am now in a room with guys I have never met! That is the Camino. There is a completely new crowd of pilgrims some of whom look immaculate! Jean the guy who massaged my feet first day out is staying here too. He is a real enigma. He must levitate to places we think.
This town is famous for the thermal springs and it is set  out like a Roman baths. We went and booked in for a 5pm session. The three of us went back to do our usual chores and as there is only wifi at the bar I took to my bed for a couple of hours. Heaven. It starts to rain and there is a flurry to get our washing in under cover. Off to the baths and we have a big tepid pool and a small hot pool and a cold plunge pool all to ourselves for an hour and a half. Peter and I have a massage afterwards which was heavenly.

 Now dinner at the bar and I can get the wifi to do the blog.
The albergue is very basic but we are grateful for a bed and I hope my fellow roommates won't snore.
The bar is full of Spanish people watching the footy and gossiping. Very friendly boisterous atmosphere.
After a delicious home cooked dinner we return to the albergue up the road and find a set of cards with strange suits. I thought they were tarot cards but they are just cards. The suits are swords, coins, chalices( we called them jam jars) and clubs that looked like zucchini is to me. We play sevens which is a nice change of pace and good for a laugh.

Inevitable Stork and chicks near the dam.

The albergue lounge room and kitchen Aljucen

Merida Spain

Karen has injured her knee and is unable to walk so we organise a taxi to take us to Merida. I opt to go to help her and as I am not sponsored or anything like Peter and Andy, it isn't essential for me to walk every kilometre. Honestly I am also feeling tired and in need of a bit of a break anyway. we have completed 200 kilometres so far. I would love a sleep in which we can do by staying at a Hostal instead of an Albergue. Our host at the Hostal Rojo Plata in Torremejia drives us to Merida because it is Good Friday and no taxis. He was very kind.

We make new arrangements for the accommodation as there is one matrimonial(double) free and Peter, Andy and Karen are booked into a three bed room. There is no room for  me as it is already squashed. I am thinking of going to the Albergue but we do the sums and take the double room for Andy and Karen, while Peter and I share the other. We dismantle the trundle and end up with two singles and more room.

We get to see the midday passion procession with the Virgin Mary of sorrow with Christ crucified and laying across her lap.(Pieta style). The procession takes ages to move through the square.

The 

My sleep in evaporates when I organise a Skype session with Tim and the family which takes place at 7:30 am here but 3:30/4:00 pm back home. It was worth it to talk with everyone and let Mum see I am fine. Peter has a beautiful new puppy called Rex who I got to see. There are lots of dogs in Spain. Lots of little miniature Yorkshire terriers, hounds, Shi Zhu and mutts. They are mostly friendly.

Merida is an interesting town with lots of marvellous Roman ruins. We spent the day walking, of course seeing the sites. 

The aqueduct

The temple of Diana

The Plaza de Espana where it all happens!

I bought some swimmer bottoms so I will be decent( reasonably anyway )for the hot springs at Aljucen tomorrow.  It will feel odd putting the backpack back on after two days without. Our routines have been all muddled by the layover. Such creatures of habit we quickly become. The packing process has become so automatic now.

We have found a great vegetarian restaurant, the Shangrila, in Sagasta 21 st, up past the Temple of Diana. The food was really good and the staff friendly. It has a cafe side and restaurant side in different colours. Rare breeds in Spain as they are real meat eaters.