Villa francs de Los Barros to Torremejia

Last night we had a delicious meal at the Meson Casa Manuela for €8.50 which had three courses. I had grilled pimentos followed by grilled chicken and chips and then a delicious but not sweet nut cream dessert. The others had garlic soup, egg and vegetables, stew and chocolate dessert, and chocolate cake. The wine was really good too. We had had to wait till 8:30 before we could have dinner so Peter and I went off to buy provisions for today's long walk.

We were keen to stay up and watch the first Easter procession we had found out was starting at 10:00 pm. Each night through Easter week they take out a different scene from the Passion of Christ- significant actions that led up to the final crucifiction of Jesus, and parade the tableau around the town. The evening crowd was abuzz with excitement but as soon as the church doors opened a hush fell over everyone. The pennitents come out and lined the street, then the first tableau of Christ came out. The band struck up a dirge like song and the whole lot proceeded up the street. then the Virgin Mary was brought out. It was very moving and powerful. 

The tone was such a contrast to the evening which had preceded with children playing in the square and adults all standing around talking or sitting in cafés all energetically socialising after siesta. The pennitents all wear these tall hats and have their faces covered with only slits for eyes. We had seen biscuits in the windows  in their shape.. Even the shops have tableaux of the Easter story in their windows like we have Christmas decorations.

We set off today  for Torremejia, 27.5 kms of nothing but vineyards and olive trees for as far as the eye could see. No shade on the way and just hard pressed road. It was a slog and Karen has developed a very sore knee. She is in pain and is hobbling. I find it pretty boring so start to listen to my music which puts a spring in my step and I take off. I am singing out loud when Peter catches up and starts to join in on the choruses. The French pilgrims look up  as we pass and Peter tells them I have been touched by the sun.

Eventually we find a place to stop for a snack. Peter dangles from an olive tree to stretch his back and I just keep my feet up.a white car pulls up and it is an Albergue owner touting for business. It turns out Karen has booked at his place to give her an incentive and so he offers to take our packs. We jump at the offer but feel weird without our constant companions. It is at least another 9 kms to town and starts to wear us down. Along the way a slim brown dog has started to follow the French group but he includes us too and  seems to be shepherding us all to town. He waits in the shade till Karen passes before he sets off again rounding us all into a loose group. He is very gentle but wary of sticks.
As we finally head towards the Albergue another little dog(lots of little Yorkshire terrier type dogs in these towns) starts barking through the window and the owner says "there goes the Camino dog". We are intrigued. Does he go out everyday and shepherd pilgrims into town we wonder?
We all collapse onto our beds and there is general consensus that we are all somewhat dehydrated. The guys go out later for drinks and the inevitable ice cream. This is a real cowboy town and there is a continual racket of dogs barking and howling through siesta. The only noise. We are staying in Hostal Rojo Plata which is comfortable but there is no kitchen.

VillaFranca de barros

We leave early to beat the heat for Karen. It is warm around 25 degrees but the walk is only 20 kms and undulating through olive farms and vineyards. The road is hard pressed dirt and stones so quite good underfoot if my feet weren't already sore. I am wearing my new boots and trusting I have made the right decision. They feel heavenly compared to my old ones. My toes seem to spread and even though I have blisters on both little toes it is more comfy.  The stones don't press through the soles either.  By the end of this walk I may be wearing size 39!

I keep Karen company on and off as she is a slower walker and I know how dispiriting it can be to be last all the time.
The country is more olive trees and vines but the olive trees must be really old as they have huge trunks.

It seems to go fairly quickly today but I am still glad to get to the albergue El Carmen. Our hospitalaria had booked ahead for us under my name. The boots have not added to my feet issues so I think I will ditch my old boots. We have a very nice modern clean room and a kind of foot bath shower. I take the opportunity to soak off my bandages and air my mangled feet in the sun. 

They look gross but are on the mend. 

Andy shoots off to the mercado(market) down the street for milk and wine, cheese and biscuits to tide us over till dinner. Peter takes to the patio to sun himself under the washing. I expose my blisters to the Spanish sun. It is a hard life!

Katarina has emailed to say she was the only pilgrim in her albergue and she was given the key and left to lockup! She has asked for a room on her own occasionally but this was extreme! I email her back to let her know where we are.  There are new pilgrims now who have started from other spots and are only walking for a week or so. We will head out later to investigate the town.
We have been amused by the number of people touting the albergues. This is a new development on this route and I think the economic advantages of accommodating pilgrims for these towns has been realised.
I am looking forward to a two day stay in Merida. I can tell I need a rest.

Zafra 26 kms

Andy and Karen left the accommodation early today while Peter, Katrina and I decided to stay for the breakfast. The hospitalaria was very keen to give us good service and we had cafe con leche and toast with marmalade. It meant I could grab an extra pit stop before heading off.
It was a pretty walk once we found our way out of town! After the obligatory pig farm that had us gagging we passed into beautiful rolling fields of wheat and barley then olive trees and vineyards. The vines are not trained on wires like home but are cut to stumps and then left to shoot new growth. Many stumps look quit old as in thick stumps. It was a beautiful day and the fields were full of small birds singing and tweeting. A bit of excitement occurred when we had to cross two creeks with just stepping stones. We didn't fall in thanks to my trusty sticks but the stones were very wobbly. After three hours walking I decided to stop for chocolate and a feet up as we had 26kms to accomplish today. We were just about halfway. Peter and I threw ourselves on the grass for a kip. The grass smelt so fresh and sweet. After what I thought was fifteen minutes but was closer to half an hour we hauled ourselves up and pressed on.
We  started to flag at 20 Km's as we reached the village Pueblo de Sencho Perez. I was feeling every stone underfoot and my toes were hurting.  As we rounded the corner Karen and Andy were sitting having ice creams. I dropped my pack and fell into a chair. We had ice creams and a good rest. I hobbled into the bars toilet and an old guy looked on with pity making some comment beyond my comprehension. Probably something like: you must be crazy perhaps? Then off we went to Zafra. Katrina was staying so we bid her farewell and expect to meet her around Merida. Zafra was another 5 kms and though somewhat refreshed, by the time we entered the town it had become a slog. Our albergue was right on the opposite side of town.. It is very nice and we have a room for 5. I spent about 40 mins with my feet up the wall before I could face a shower.

Zafra is likened to Seville and is the only town that has the commercial chains and more glamorous shops. It has an old town with castle, convent and some amazing churches. There is a museum with muhedjar art(which  but it was closed due to siesta). The place has a rich history and some charming squares.  We eat at the albergue tonight. The hospitalaria is so happy and helpful. The walls are so thick at the Convento of SanFrancisco that the wifi only works close by the office. I abandon the blog for a wander round the old town. Or a hobble. 

While cruising the old town I stumble on a shop with hiking boots on sale. I am desperate for relief so try a pair of 38. I have to borrow Karen's socks but they feel pretty good on my sore feet. The girl offers latex insoles and I am smiling. By the end of this trek I might need a 39!!

They are Nortons and cost me about $100 Aus. They have to be better than what I am wearing.

We return for dinner and early bed. We are going to bed when the locals are going out and I get the giggles and think we might not sleep. I sleep like a babe oblivious to trumpets and laughter outside our window! 

On the way to Monasterio.

The mist lifted gradually to reveal a beautiful day. We walked into Extremadura today and the way markers changed to boxes with yellow for Camino, green for roman road or yellow and green for both on the same way. The road was lined with stone fences and all is neat and tidy. Large cattle graze in lush pasture. We finally get to this huge intersection and feel the need for a break. We head into a hito and reel with shock. It is a massive bus stop and there are hundreds of people buying souvenirs or food and drink and all seems chaotic. The good thing was there were lots of toilets but we couldn't bare it and retreated to the ice cream van outside and sat on some boulders lining the car park. We had felt completely assaulted after our quiet walking.

Fuentes de Cantos

We had lovely accommodation last night in Monasterio, two bunks in a room and a bathroom between four. It was a very well set up Municipal Albergue. The only complaint from me was the washing line. It was one of those pulley jobs outside the toilet window and set on such an angle I could only peg one bit of garment before I pulled the line  to peg the next part. Imagine me on tip toes hanging out a window struggling with the washing line and all the time hoping nothing would fall off into a courtyard below.

The dinner that Sunday was very odd. We decided against the pilgrims menu for a change and thought pizza might be nice. Well that threw the hospitalaria  into great consternation as the ones we selected he didn't have. They were frozen of course!  He brought us beautiful green olives and a plate of fresh chips which were complimentary. Eventually we got the pizzas but they were so oily. We ate half and took the rest back to the albergue for some young pilgrims. The whole meal including wine cost 7 €. 

Today we walked through beautiful woods contained by stone walls, along a babbling brook which reminded me of England and then into wide pasture where I walked through a herd of cows. Leaving that terrain behind we continued through wheat fields and paddocks ready for seed. It is so quiet. By now Karen is in agony with her blister and needs treatment. We sit awhile but that makes starting again painful. As we see Fuentes appear on the horizon we think we are nearly there. Alas! There are more undulating hills to broach before we even get near. These hill towns are deceptive. Eventually we slog past a pig farm and enter town. We have booked ahead today because there is only one place in town to stay. It is the Zaguan Apartementos which are very grand for pilgrims. We have a double room( I am sharing with Peter who is gay) and Andy and Karen have the matrimonial room which is an iron double bed with a lush red velvet bedspread.  The ceilings are decorated and there are friezes around the walls. We have our own kitchen theoretically but as other pilgrims are in the other bedrooms we are not in full ownership. It is a warren of a place. I am hobbling around in my socks bemoaning the fact that there is a pool with water but the day has turned cold and short of dangling my feet I am not inclined to bare anything else. A shower revives and a long sit down. I meet  new French pilgrims and start speaking FrenchAustralian. Everyone is always amazed that Australians are doing a Camino.

We find a bath and encourage Karen to go and have a soak with her cup of tea!  Katarina comes in to visit and sits on Pete's bed. When  she stands up he goes flying off the end of the bed. We have a good laugh.

The Camino and the roman way. These are our markers in Extremedura.

Our first progress sign so far.

Peter resting on our luxury beds

The ghost of pilgrims passed?

21 Kim's today and 120 kilometres completed.  In desperation I email Jonathan to see if he can send me my old boots. If I can't get them in Merida where we are spending two days I will buy a new pair.  So I have learned a lesson- pride comes before a fall. I have been humbled by my blisters. I remember so many on the Camino Frances who suffered terribly but still completed so I know I can overcome. It will be painful  though.

Monasterio 20 .8 Kim's

Leaving el Real de la Jara we set off into the mist past another ruined castle. The mist gave such a great atmosphere you could imagine knights jousting or moors and Christians fighting.

We had a lovely time in this little town because it was a short day so we were able to rest my blistered feet and watch the Saturday fun in the plaza - children dancing the Macarena and balloon animal competitions. 

We realised it was Saturday and needed to get provisions for tomorrow as nothing was likely to be open. We bought wine and retreated to the albergue where we spent siesta time on the balcony soaking up the sun, drinking wine and sharing stories. 

Dinner was a joy. After ditching the first place because they couldn't manage anything vegetarian we ended up at the Casa Cultural which was doing a version of Jesus Christ Superstar. The building was so deceptive. From the outside it was quite humble with a terrace garden bar. Inside there was a whole theatre, the waitress was so enthusiastic to help us get vegetarian meals for Peter and Karen. We had a marvellous fruit and vegetable salad as entre followed by beef stew for Katerina, Peter and I and omelette for the others; then we had caramelised oranges and strawberries for dessert. It was one of the best meals we have had and all washed down with Sangria. she was so thrilled when she knew we were walking to Santiago,(she had been three times). she hugged us all and wished us Buen Camino. We left a tip because they had worked hard to give us a good meal and they were so charming.

We went up to the castle to explore . It has been restored and made into a performance space in the interior but it looks as if it isn't used much.  There was a race on to get back to the albergue and the one toilet.  

Altadena de la Platte to El Real de la Jara 16kms

Today we wake to a heavy wet mist. After stopping for a breakfast (1.70€) of fresh orange juice and an omelette we start the climb out of town past the Bull ring. And into country dotted with trees and lush pasture. It is somewhat eerie walking I the mist but also cool. we come across farm gates and chained dogs who bark but are not aggressive. The next is a herd of sheep, then goats waiting to be milked , we are on the lookout for wild pig but instead come across a pig farm but they are free range and not at all smelly. The animals are all so curious. The walking is steady uphill most if the way and rough again. My feet are sore but heel is bearable. I am glad I opted for a short walk today.
The scenery is really pretty and soon we are passed by the Frenchman on his horse and his wife who is walking. Lots of farm gates and delightful trees and birds singing. It is quite beautiful and pastoral and then we enter town.
We choose the private albergue that provides pillow cases and donnas. I decide to defer the shower till later today. Katarina and I go off to look around and see the church. It is closed and finally the mist lifts and we can see the castle. All these areas were Moorish then Christian at various stages. The legend here is that a deer / stag led the  Christians to the  castle  which they captured and it has been a Christian stronghold ever since.
I am really glad to give my boots a rest. My sandals are a nice change and let my soggy feet gary out.
The albergue has a lovely deck that we spend the afternoon siesta time on drinking wine and sharing photos. Karen shows me this little book about walking that a friend made for her which has quotes from Thomas Clark In  Praise of Walking.  It is as all treasure that I would like to make when I get home.
While we are sitting here enjoying the sun and writing our blogs our enigmatic Spanish pilgrim arrives. Juan I think is his name. He was the one who massaged my feet the first night out of Seville. He  never says much but always greets me so warmly and doesn't join us for dinner. He had a nasty blister which had to be dressed with a bandage. I hope mine doesn't go that way. The background noise is off dogs barking,and cocks crowing all overlaid with birds tweeting and the church bell ringing the time. All is so peaceful.