Silleda to Lestedo 28 km

Last night we took ourselves off to a great little bar and played cards until bed time. I had whiskey because I was feeling cold and it was such a nice change. Andy had wine and Peter had beer and the owner provided complimentary three little bowls of spaghetti chopped into small pieces mixed with pulpo(octopus) which I had to eat because neither of the men like seafood. What a hardship- not! She then gave us pepitos and chips and then bread with cheese and sausage. These little bars are great places so that was our dinner. It had a great atmosphere and was full of people all ages.

The room was really toasty when we returned and the clothes were mostly dry. Tick.
We plan to leave after breakfast at 7:30 am downstairs but the bar is not open and doesn't look like it is going to either despite us being assured they would. Oh well that is Spain. We set off and find a very nice place five minutes up the road serving hot croissants which we ordered with our cafe con leche. The bar owner provides shot glasses of  fresh orange juice too. Now set we head off full of enthusiasm. Andy is walking pretty fast with the incentive of seeing Karen tomorrow. We plan to stop for a break at the 8 km mark, then 14km  and possibly another stop before our destination. Andy has learned to take the first open bar because the next is not always open and the troops(us) grumble. We make good time and find a stunning patisserie. This time I Oder orange juice, and a miniature cream puff. The guys have the standard choc croissant and chocolate, cafe con leche grande (Peter knows this very well in Spanish) and a jellied topped slice. The owner gives both the guys a shot glass of orange juice and a plate of sponge slices. I eat the sponge and it is delicious. Ther goes me being restrained. All this for the grand price of €6.
The walk is varied through fields, villages with more modern homes, up hill, down dale, and lots of views across the valley.  Coming into Ponte Ulla we head down a steep descent which is a bit hard on the knees, but it affords fabulous views of the new fast train bridge which has a design to complement the Roman Viaduct behind it. It is quite spectacular.  

Once across the river we head into a steady climb, climb, climb. Not hard just up all the way.  We come across the French couple Dominiique and Regis. Regis is struggling today as he has developed a shin splint. We see another bar earlier than planned and decide to take a break. Dominique and Regis decide to have lunch and hope resting for an hour will ease his problem. I suggest some stretches which Regis tries with great enthusiasm. We all laugh when Dominique starts mimicking exercises, throwing her arms around and doing knee bends. Their lunch is an antipasta plate of meat and cheese and honey to go with the cheese. It is huge and the chirizo slices are the size of our mortadella which is unusual.

Feeling somewhat refreshed we set off. I have put on my gel pads because the balls of my feet are feeling tender. Peter is walking very well with his new gel insoles. Soon we see a couple of pilgrims ahead. This is really a novelty because we rarely see any others while we walk, even when we leave from the same albergues.  Andy speeds up and is delighted to find it is Anna Rose from Germany and Swift from Denmark. We haven't seen them since Montemarta about two weeks ago. They have been travelling a little slowly because Swift has a sore foot. We walk them to the Xunta Albergue which is at the top of the hill. It looks really nice. I am thinking how nice it would be to stop but we are booked into a Casa Rural, Cada de Casar a few kilometres ahead.  The weather begins to threaten rain after a lovely sunny day so we move off with a sense of urgency. My feet are really complaining when I think about them. Because it is downhill Peter is forging ahead, downhill is his forte. I am the hill queen. At last the Casa is before us ( I am muttering,  'about time, my feet are screaming') and we are a bare 13 kms to go to Santiago tomorrow.
It has been interesting watching the skies today. Usually there are many jet streams in the sky every day but today it has been the planes themselves. We can even see the undercarriage so we know we are close to our destination.
The Casa is very gracious with an illustrious history. We have a room with three beds and I take the third which is a fold away. It is not quite the same luxury to share a room but compared with  a room of 20 bunks it is. We have an ensuite and my goodness a hair dryer! I am not sure how to even use one now after washing my hair in soap for most of the 7 weeks and letting it dry naturally! The shower is hot and I just take my time. Hot water is the greatest luxury that I most appreciate. In Spain where we have stayed, the water is not always well regulated; hot then cold, then hot again or only lukewarm, or limited time. When you get a good shower you really appreciate it. I explore and find a self service coffee machine and home made biscuits which I enjoy.

Andy flaked out in the comfy chairs in the upstairs lounge.