Venice 17th August

 The trip by ferry from Pula was easy. A quick check on the passport then boarding. The only aspect that was trying was the constant broadcast information sessions for the day trippers in multiple languages that droned on the whole time. I must be tired because they grated on my nerves. Russian, German, Polish, Italian, English. It was just as efficient at the Venice end and I was soon free to find my way.  Having been in Venice many years ago I was a bit intimidated by that task but my map turned out to be useful and I found my way to the Station and an info booth to find accommodation and the ticket for the next step to Turin. Piece of cake.

 With my confidence boosted I booked in to the hotel(€59 a night with breakfast, close to train for early departure). The room is uninspiring with only a view of the backs of houses and a single bed but it is adequate and staff are very nice and helpful.

Now I start exploring. I find my way to the Piazzo San Marco (filled with tourists naturally). I have passed numerous Murano glass shops and tourist shops but nothing appeals. I stop for an aperitivo at the famous Florian Cafe with its white jacket waiters and their musicians. This cafe was the haunt of Byron and other famous people and is an institution. You pay for the music and the history but the presentation of drink, aperitivo and a carafe of water with my toasted finger sandwiches and small plate of chips on a silver tray makes it seem worthwhile. Very elegant.

I join the queue for the bell tower which moves quickly. I wonder if anyone is really looking at Venice below because it seems that all they do is take photographs. I am guilty too but I do a tour again just to gaze un-interpreted by my camera. 

 

It is an amazing view and cold up here. The temperature in Venice is significantly cooler than Croatia. Venice is overrun by tourists with three large cruise ships in port as well as the rest of the world! I am not sure I have seen any Italians! As the evening closes in and I start my return to the hotel I am missing the liveliness of the Croatian towns at night.  Venice is behind closed doors it seems. The twists and turns of the alleys and canals reveal secret places but I feel like it is a movie set.  The Grand canal which was buzzing with boats is quiet. I am tired and footsore from wearing my dainty sandals. I buy yoghurt and cantaloupe for dinner and collapse in my room. I have been up since 5:00 am. I need a good nights sleep before catching the early train to Turin.  I am so ready to go home and excited to be only a few days away.  

Brijuni island off Pula

Today I had fun skyping Mum and Irene and Bill. The connection was unreliable but it was still great to talk with them. I am eager to get home now. I went out to scope the dock for the Ferry to Venice tomorrow and the boat to Brijuni island. It started to rain so I took shelter in a restaurant and had a tuna salad even though I had a big breakfast of omelette, yoghurt, juice, toast and jam and coffee.  The weather is rainy and I finally succumbed to a small umbrella and returnrd to the hotel for my windcheaters as it has turned cold. When we set sail the rain becomes a grey sheet and there are torrents of water off the cabin roof. The wind gets up and we are all very cold. The inner cabin is standing room only. If the rain doesn't ease we won't see much. Just as we near the island the rain clears and we can see. There are five hotels and holiday apartments but no one lives permanently on the island apparently. It has a rich history as it was settled by the Illyrians, then the Romans, Italains and then Austrians who built the hotels and created the island as a place for the rich and famous. Tito the president of Yugoslavia made it his summer home and received many famous people. Many countries sent animals as gifts and there was a significant zoo with lions, tigers, cheetahs, chimpanzees, orangatans, elephants and zebras, bears, giraffes, goats, Croatian horses and donkeys, ostriches, and even Australian animals and birds. Most of the animals died of natural causes and have been taxidermied and are on display. The ones who are left are mostly, cattle, zebras, goats, horses, deer and one elephant. They are in open paddocks except for the elephant. It seems a bit sad since it lost its mate. The deer have multiplied and they swim to and from a nearby island! 

Tito is remembered fondly by many people here and the museum of his time on the island is very interesting. He made wine and grew fruit and seemed to do a lot of ordinary things here as well as run the country.

There are the remains of roman ruins with baths and an aqueduct. The island is rich in archeological sites yet to be excavated. There is a golf course and lots of bikes for guests to get around. There is a 15 th C church which had beautiful frescos. We were still cold and glad of the little train that took us around the island because it offered shelter and warmth. I resorted to coffee and cherry strudel to stoke the fire within! 

Fortunately the return trip while windy and cold was fine. Coming into Pula port with the sunset turning the roman amphitheatre pale pink was quite beautiful and striking. 

I am disappointed that I am not able to load any photos since the card reader has failed and the phone is not picking up the wifi for me to transfer photos to the cloud. Sorry..

Zadar to Pula

  Jan has negotiated with Marjana our landlady, to let us have the room for the day. I have learned to be a better negotiator from watching Jan. She is very good. We are leaving late tonight in the midnight and one o'clock buses to our respective destinations. Jan is off to Split and then Milan, and I am off to Pula then Venice and Turin. It is great to have the apartment today because we can leave our gear, go for a swin, have a shower right up till we leave at 10:00 pm to go to the bus station.  We make the most of it and even play cards  for a while but keep rushing out to the square when we hear clapping or any commotion. 

Zadar night crowds

Opera in the square

Night lights in the peace gardens  and thronging crowds at  night.

The swimming didn't eventuate because there was a huge swell running and it is overcast.

We go for a stroll and decide to have a drink at a restaurant overlooking the water. The waiter is a bit grumpy but Jan orders a glass of milk and I order a sage cordial.  The cordial is a local specialty served in little plastic pouches ( like you can buy soups or icy poles at home) and is quite delicious.

 They come in a range of flavours and I consider how commercial they would be for Australian restaurants. 

When the bill comes we query the milk because it has been listed as two. No mistake, the waiter says because you got a 200 ml glass and that is twice the serve of 100 ml! We have heard everything now. We return to the Art hotel for its reliable internet and have a late lunch. I order a grappe as an appetiser. I haven't forgotten how delicious the grappe was in Hvar and how it was a great aperatif. I am a bit partial to it now.

Eventually we leave for the bus station and decide it is letting Zadar down. The toilets are the only dirty ones I have used in Croatia and there is no waiting room so you have to sit at a cafe and buy a drink. I start getting jumpy because last time we nearly missed the bus. We didn't understand the bus sign then. My bus is running late. I ask every driver who comes in to check which is the correct bus. There are a lot of people around thank goodness otherwise it would be dismal. Jan is desperate for a sleep but she doesn't leave till 1:00 am. The idea was to avoid an extra night in the more expensive Split.  My bus takes 7 hours and it is so crowded I can't sleep till most people get off at  Riejke. The ride would have been really scenic in the day because it is pretty by moonlight!  At Riejke I get the two seats and can stretch out and get my short legs up. They have been dangling without foot support which is uncomfortable. The young girl across the aisle takes to  the floor space and sleeps in her green sleeping bag, like a green caterpillar.

 Pula is hardly awake when we pull in and I head for a strong coffee and then a local bus to town. The town whizzes past before I know it and I end up at the end of the route near a beach. I help an old lady get off the bus and then go for a walk  to see what is there. A couple of nice un-open restaurants  and a pretty beach. I head back to the bus and the old lady is there and I help her again. She gives me an apple. This time I do get off in town in the hope of finding the tourist information office and the hotel I booked then cancelled by mistake when Jan changed her plans. As it turns out that was a bonus. I thought they were going to charge me a cancellation booking fee but it appears they haven't and what is better I have got the room for a much better rate using my improved negotiating skills. It is half the rate I had booked. Thanks Jan.  It also proves the point that many places are not full despite the warnings that it is peak time here.  

I go to see the amazing Roman amphitheatre and other roman ruins here. I book a cruise tour for tomorrow to Brijuni National Park island which was the summer home of the Yugoslav dictator Tito and has an ancient olive tree (IV AD) a safari park, roman country residence  etc. and my ferry to Venice on Sunday.  By now it is lunchtime and I am feeling weary. I take a siesta and then go out for the light show on the docks tonight. Apparently they light up the cranes. This should be interesting.

Kayaking rapids out of Zadar

Today we did an excursion into the country around Zadar for white water kayaking. It was conducted on this beautiful river at the base of a canyon. The rapids weren't too hard to start with but there were two large drops one of which we walked around and the other only one person per kayak could go. It was a 5 metre drop.  That I conceded to Jan as this was an activity on her bucket list. I was disappointed but it was a big group so we couldn't pull canoes up and do it again. I had to cliff climb with paddle and two waterproof tubs which was equally hazardous without the fun. In all it was a fabulous day. 14 and a half kilometres of paddling and struggling to keep the rubber kayaks straight the whole time. We had several rapids and a few challenging ones. We got stuck on a rock with two kayaks colliding and tipping over but we remained upright and managed to manoeuvre ourselves backwards through the rapid. That was fun.

We had a swim halfway and the water was very bracing! It was delightful to refresh in the river. Then back to kayaking. Tired but happy.

 The big drop we walked around Jan going over the rapid

Return to Zadar

We hauled ourselves to the bus stop this morning to return to Zadar. I did ask a young couple if they were going our way would they give us a lift but they were going in the opposite direction. We saw a few buses go past before one stopped and he was just going to the next stop at the park entrance where we could get a connecting bus. He let us get on and not stow our luggage. We had an hour to wait bit that passed quickly and we were on our way. The scenery is quite lovely and we passed over a massive dam. This is the tourist road and it is very busy. We passed a car accident, head on into a bus! No bodies thank goodness. Soon we were back in Zadar and heading off to the tourist info for accommodation and booking a kayak trip for tomorrow. I go check the accommodation while Jan does the kayak booking. The room is actually an apartment and much bigger than we had before for half the price but no WiFi. It is right off the main square, so well situated. It is up two flights of stairs of course so I help the woman carry Jan's bag up. There is free wifi in square but it doesn't seem strong and I can't load anything or get my mail. 

We do a stroll and I am looking for a t shirt as I don't have enough cool tops for the hot weather and what I have is looking very tired after all the hand washing. I see.a really nice grey t shirt with 'addicted to shoes' on the front and I am sold also a pure cotton voile sleeveless shirt, black with small white stars, which is very reasonable and I am happy. This place is full of good pizzas but I restrain Jan to one slice each and a drink followed by ice cream so we aren't stuffed. We return to the apartment and Jan goes back to look at some clothes but I decide to take a nap before we hit the streets for some sightseeing again. We head to the waterfront where people are swimming, sun baking, playing water polo and generally enjoying the late afternoon sun and come across a fellow selling audio tours on a barque ( sailing ship) around the peninsula for 70 Kuna. I decide quickly and we are soon sailing along observing Zadar from the water. It is great. Well priced and interesting commentary as well as a unique view. It is also very relaxing on the water.

When we return we follow the music to a bar and order drinks and light snacks of bruschetta with truffles, mascapone and prosciutto for me and Jan has Tuna carpaccio. It was great because we didn't agonise over the menu as we usually do. I always decide quickly but Jan likes to read everything and then decide. We sit listening to the music till dark and the place is buzzing with buskers everywhere and people everywhere but a lovely laid back feeling. We watch the fire dancers, I buy a wooden frog for Ziggy but will get one for me too. You stroke their backs and they croak but they are all handmade wood frogs with different tones. Next it is the young guitarists (reminded me of Nick and Jonathan) who were so good and playing different blues music. We finally pay the 20 kunas to enter st Donats 9 th C church because they have a light show at night and we feel we are getting value for money. The church is Romanesque and round. Quit beautiful and unique. The light show with music is like a meditation. We are wandering and trying to decide on something else to eat or not when we come across a group of rap dancers. They are really good and one spins on his head which I find terrifying. They stand on their hands and have a great patter to entice the crowd to give money. I have given to every busker tonight because their standard is so high.

I keep losing Jan in the crowd but play my frog to let her know where I am. She has an ice-cream. I decide to have the apple back at the apartment. I am much happier now we are not trying to eat everything that she sees. It was too much food after I have been used to eating much less.

We are weary but feel we have had a great day with lots of variety. Our overnight buses are booked for Thursday night to Pula for me and 1:00 am to Split for Jan so we don't have to pay another night's accommodation here or Split. Jan leaves for Italy on the 15 th and I will continue to Pula, then Venice and onto Turin and home. 

Zadar to Plitivice Lakes National Park

We get up early to catch the local bus to the bus station for our journey to Plitivice National Park and all goes smoothly and we arrive in ample time for breakfast. We get busy on our IPads as we have Wifi until I  see that it is nearly nine and there is no bus. I mind the luggage while Jan checks and we have been sitting in front of it! The bus is the Zadar to Zagreb! We hurry to get on and we are the last passengers.We had been waiting for the Plitivice Lakes signed bus. We have a pit stop about halfway along at this amazing place with stuffed bears and a refuge for injured animals.

As it turns out we are at the stop past the lakes and I have to pay extra to the conductor. He drops us off at the little place called Seliste Dreznicko and then we go searching for our guest house. The road is lined with them. Jan starts her commentary about paying extra through Booking.com when we could have just arrived and got a place cheaper. She may be correct but when you are hauling a suitcase looking for accommodation isn't so easy. I start asking where our place is and horror it is about 300 metres back along the road and there is no footpath. I tell Jan to wait in the shade while I locate our place which is not so hard but it is hot and when I ask if Jan can get some help( thinking there is a car as one is parked in the shade) , the woman marches down the street to help Jan. I am mortified. It turns out that the husband has had a stroke and can no longer drive. The car may not have been theirs! We get settled and they are lovely people and the room is very nice and large this time. We explain that we want to cancel the extra day we had booked because we think three nights will be too long here and Jan is anxious to return to Zadar. She loves every place and hates to leave! The owners tell us about a swimming hole opposite so after exploring the area we go down and discover this immaculate deep aquamarine ceek with very refreshing water. It is quite bracing but good for Jan's heat rash which has flared up again. They advise us to leave early for the park tomorrow. We ask if any other guests are going and would be able to give us a lift. What luck when a young French couple, Ellen and Jeremy offer to take us at 7:30 am. The only restaurant in town is packed so we get in early, play some cards and eat. It is pretty good food. 

We arrive as scheduled at the Plitivice Lakes National Park at 7:45 and there is a short queue. We grab a quick coffee and donut and set off. We are impressed with the falls and there are lots of them. 

 There are boardwalks over the cascades and across the lakes. The water is so clear you can see the fish.

  

The falls are very high in places or there are a myriad of cascades. It takes us until 3:30pm to go around all the lakes and by lunch time the park is choked with people shuffling! It is peak tourist season after all and we can hear lots of French and Italian, German and Japanese as well as Croatian. I long for the quiet outback and some breathing space. We exit the park after some trouble finding the path and get a bus back to our lodgings. A beer, a shower and a rest are required, in that order. It was an amazing place. The colour and clarity of the water is breathtaking. Highly recommended in the off season.

Dubrovnik to Zadar 8th August

Andrej at the hotel has prebooked our tickets for the bus to Zadar thank goodness because it is nearly booked out. We get organised to leave but Jan wants the contact for an artist that has work hanging in the hotel. She is distracted by the art! I get a bit anxious to catch the local bus and the later bus so I haul her case down the stairs while she is discussing the issue with Andrej. I say you can get the info on the web but she prefers to ask someone which is more useful sometimes but perhaps not right now? Eventually we get moving and get to the stop with about ten minutes to spare. It is a squash getting on the bus with locals and tourists but we squeeze in and arrive at Gruz harbour and bus station. The queue for tickets is long but moves quickly. We get our booked tickets and it is only about 15 mins and the bus arrives. We have to pay 7 kuna extra to put bags in the hold! We are off to Zadar and I am delighted we are taking the bus.  We are following the coast and it is spectacular, with vIews out to the islands and pristine coves around charming little villages. It is quite dreamlike. I bought a pack of cards in Dubrovnik so we tried playing Sevens( Andy and Karen were my teachers and we played a lot on the Camino.)  The winding road makes the cards fall off the little table so after four games we give up. We then go through Bosnia ( about 100km)  where we have to show passport  in and out.) We have a pit stop where we drool over the mussels that must be local.  We have passed miles of mussel farms. The kingdom of Croatia sold this strip of coastline to the Ottoman Empire to secure their independence and that is why Bosnia has some coastline.

We start stopping more frequently to pick up and drop off people so the ride is long- 8 and a half hours.  Jan is feeling the strain and is getting tired. I doze a bit but don't want to miss anything. I am not tired but I did take a Dramamine to prevent car sickness knowing the road was going to be winding. 

The entry into Zadar is quite uninspiring. Zadar seems to be on a plain or river delta so it seems very flat with none of the dramatic mountains that frame the other cities. We have passed some intensive farming which is possible on this flat land.

 Eventually we arrive and get a taxi to the nearest point and find the apartment without delay. It is not too inspiring from outside but the landlady is very friendly and the room though small is quite stylish. It is in a good position only minutes from everything. We get settled and Nada gives us a quick orientation and we hurry off to the esplanade to hear the sea organ and to watch the salute to the sun which is a large circle offload oanels set into the esplanade that start  a light show when the sun goes down. I am staggered to see dozens of people standing or sitting over the lights so there isn't a show. I have to surprises a sense of outrage and the urge to tell them to get off the lights so we can see what they do. The lights seem to flicker and change colours.  The sea organ is booming out  with a rather mournful sound. This is a horizontal construction of pipes under the esplanade that is operated by the movement of the sea.

 Full Moon Night

We have arrived in Zadar at Full Moon Festival so the place is jumping and packed to the gills.Along the esplanade are numerous stalls selling food, drinks and an aray of products hand made by locals.

We are intrigued by the sardines in a bread case, flat pizza like dough fried like pappadums and sprinkled with sour cream or drizzled with chocolate. There are numerous buskers of all styles dotted around so they create a wonderfully fun  atmosphere.

The town is very old with roman ruins and a 9th C church. It si on a peninsula surrounded by water but has been laid out in orderly Roman structure rather than the winding streets of many old towns. As a conseqeunce it seems more open and is very easy to find your way. the new part of town is across the bay on the opposite mainland. The architecture in the new town is pretty average and quite unattractive un fortunately but that doesn't stop the tourists as the place is very busy and there are nice beaches to the south and north of town with flash hotels. There is a distinctive Austrian/German feel to the area which is a hangover from the Austrian Hapsburg Rule. Lots of signs are in German and Croatian and restaurants have menus in Italian, German and English.

 Town square Jan on esplanade