Kayaking around Dubrovnik

ZzzWhen we arrived in Dubrovnik we saw kayakers out in the bay. Jan expressed a desire to do it while we were here. I was a little more reserved as I have had some rather unfortunate experiences and know how tiring it can be. With all the other distractions we had let it slide. Today our intention was to go to Lokrum Island. This is a national park across the bay that serves as the recreation area for all Dubrovnik residents. Before heading to the port to catch the boat we went to the Information office to see what concerts are on tonight. While there Jan spied the kayak flyer and instantly decided now was the time. I had said that it would be best to do it in the morning when the sea was calm because afternoons are choppy and hotter. I was a bit reluctant as I wasn't prepared with sun screen or cover but as a group was about to leave we had to do it NOW.  We pay up and get rigged out and we are the first to launch. We paddle out and see a group huddled together so we power out to the group. They move off and we paddle along with them. Getting our system going was a bit tricky but the kayaks are much easier to handle than Canadian canoes. We go out round the island passing the monastry, then we head into a cave. When we pull up to the group to hear the commentary, the leader takes one look at us and asks what we are doing. We think we are part of his group but he says emphatically we are not. We are a bit concerned that we are going to be dumped. I feel like the ugly duckling, very unwanted. We stick with the group past the nudist beach where a lot of older people are sunning themselves and swimming. 

 Kayaked past this beach

I love the fact so many older women here go swimming. We beach in a cave and another group rejects us. Where was our group? We had left them behind and needed to wait for them! Eventually our group turns up. Gorgeous Stipan is relieved we didn't drown and we all have a good laugh. We catch up on the info we didn't hear and then stick with our group on the homeward leg past the harbour and along the foot of the walls back to our starting point. Stipan says our technique was pretty good for first timers and we kept up with all the young ones. We had kayaked 7.5 kms and spent three hours kayaking, swimming and snorkelling. My arms were tired and I was a little pink but it was a fun experience and Jan loved it. Apparently it isn't uncommon for groups to get mixed up. 

After a shower and  a refresh we ventured off to Lokrum Island. It is a half hour boat trip and only 70HRK. The island absorbs lots of people but doesn't feel crowded. We set off for a rocky point we passed in the kayaks but end up amidst the nudists. Wrong path! The sign says no photos and no clothes. We retrace our steps and strike out for the Monastry instead. The paths are very rocky and Jan is wearing new slip on sandals instead of her runners and finds the going slow. We find the monastry and also a lot of almost tame peacocks. Many had chicks.

 

I saw a little black rabbit with upright ears amongst the formal gardens developed by Maximillian from Austria. We get distracted by the shady cafe and have some refreshments. Jan then decides to have a squid salad, and I have a beer and feed the peacocks bread. Maxamillians gardens 

 Monastery

Now we are looking for the swimming place after passing the arboretum that has several eucalyptus trees. Drawn by some lyrical guitar playing we return to the wharf and sit in a little bar drinking Grappa( plum liqueur).

  

  Finally we get to the water for a swim. There are lots of families and grand parents swimming and a row of rather round old women in swimsuits all gossiping. We are feeling pretty mellow and I am a bit sunburnt from the morning.  It has been a great day. To top it off we have a chocolate, caramel, peanut and biscuit crepe, shared to halve the damage! Wonderful. 

Tomorrow we leave for Zadar. The receptionist is impressed we went kayaking and then books our seats on the 11:00 am bus to Zadar. We are paying for it, but we are getting outstanding service. It is nice to have that assistance. Back to budget places tomorrow.

Post Pizza night

After our pizza and a few gallery visits we were going to have a drink at the Buza bar but Jan suddenly felt just too tired and I was not concerned . She wanted a rest but I just said if we go back to the hotel I am not coming out again . I will have yoghurt and fruit for tea. It was early 8 anyway. We ended up having an apple and camomile tea for dinner and taking up the hems on a pair of trousers I bought. A night at home! Even travellers need a night in sometimes. I caught up with all my emails and the blog.

Jan crashed in 30 seconds. That's what walking up and down all the steps in Dubrovnik does to you.

Dubrovnik city tour

Did a walking tour this morning which was interesting. The damage done to the city during the 1991-2 siege of Dubrovnik was extensive. It is still a sore point for many people I think. The economy is not so strong and the history of Dubrovnik is of a rich independent republic. Tourism is the main industry now.

This us a map of the damage done by bombing, shrapnel and fires.

They have restored the city as close to original as possible using the same techniques and building materials. A cypress tree is being encouraged to continue growing out of the church. They grow slowly thank goodness.

  Statue of Roland

The Buza Bar outside the walls on the cliff side. Coolest place for swimming and drinking cocktails.

The only remaining Venetian style palace left standing after the 17th C earthquake that killed half the populTion and destroyed the town.

By the end of the tour we were hungry but before lunching we needed to shop. I needed so e cool flat comfy sandals and some sort of runners. Jan was enticed by MaxMara  50% off sale and I succumbed to a nice pair of linen pants. It is so hot and I don't have enough cool gear. I need to go home before I spend more! I am chockers in the backpack. Now I have 6 pairs of shoes Aargh! My white ecosystem gave me a blister last night when they have been well worn too. 

By now we are starving and Naned the most gorgeous hotel manager suggests Tabascos just outside the wall. It is a pizza place because Jan loves pizza. I insist we share this time instead of one each and she orders a delicious jumbo. It is HUGE and I am regretting this decision already. By the time we finish I am so full I  feel like a Phillip Island penguin returning  with food for the kids. I feel sleepy and uncomfortable. We decide to keep walking and visit the Rectors Palace Museum in an attempt to settle my pain. No tea tonight.

Dubrovnik 4 th - 7th

The ferry ride from Korcula to Dubrovnik was a stop all islands jammed packed catamaran. It wasn't as large as the Jadrolinja catamarans and was stuffy and rolled more. My fan saved the day and I didn't need Dramamine tablets. I may have got sea legs at last. It was the Nona Anna. There are not many ferries this leg so you could find yourself stuck on an island if you weren't careful.  We sailed past Miljet the national park and met a young English guy who said he had been on it for a week and it was fantastic but quiet. He said he resented the party boats that pulled in disturbing their peace.

The hotel is in the old town and that is only pedestrian traffic. Getting a taxi to the door of the hotel is not possible. The hotel advised entering by the Pile gate but our taxi driver insists the other Ploce is closer. We insist on the Pile as advised but when Jan sees that it is a bit of a walk to the entrance she goes with the taxi drivers version. As it turns out we should have listened to the hotel but in the end it was six of one and half a dozen of the other but an extra 50 Kuna.. Dubrovnik is almost a V shape which means the main road is flat and either side has hills and STEPS, I go ahead to the hotel and ask for assistance for Jan to get up the steps with the suitcase for which they were most obliging. Jan is more used to the door to door service of taxis and her desire to stay in the old towns has caused some difficulty due to the pedestrian emphasis. Most of the towns use these little electric trolleys to deliver goods.

 

Dubrovnik is impressive. The place is packed with tourists and there are about three ships moored around the bay. One is so massive it probably holds more people than all Dubrovnik! All day there are walking tours of groups of twenty or more all speaking different languages. It is incredibly hot so we just drip when we walk around. 

The hotel is fabulous. It is so opulent and full of art and interesting ephemera.

 The hotel at night and the room. 

 Dining at the restaurant outside in the street. Classy service.

This is a splurge but we are enjoying the treat because the staff are incredibly welcoming and friendly. They can't do enough for us and the hotel is only about 15rooms. It is dear but I got a cheaper rate from booking .com as a frequent booker and they gave us the extra days at the same rate plus 20% off food. The only downside is the huge mirror which actually reflects the bathroom and toilet. We have used the curtains to cover the mirror so we get some privacy!

Yesterday we did a walking tour of the walls and I did a Game of Thrones walking tour. It was very hot and my guide said he had lost about 15 kilos because of the walking in a costume of mail and armour!

This is where Tyrion was accused by the Priest.Entrance to King's Landing 

 View over the roof tops from hotel wine and Tapas bar balcony. At the end of the day Jan discovered she has come out in massive red blotches on her legs from the heat! It isn't uncomfortable but it looks pretty bad. She has been in the wars since she started the trip.

My photos for the blog are limited to the IPhone or IPad cameras now as the card reader seems to have died. Sorry about that.

Korcula Monday the 4 th August

We have booked a fun fish day and have organised the travel agency to reserve our tickets for the ferry to Dubrovnik. They won't sell tickets in advance and we can't be there if we take the fishing trip. The girl promised to get the tickets so we could have a great visit on her island. We got up early to finish packing and left for the pier. When we got to the designated spot there was no boat and we get a bit anxious. It is a magnificent morning. The sea is calm and smooth. Finally when we start to think he isn't coming a little boat chugs in to view. It is Mario the skipper of Fish and fun tours. We set off in search of fish. I am a bit sleepy and the gentle roll of the boat lulls me half asleep. Jan does the right thing by chatting away with him. We drop a long line in the water and hope for a catch. I am not surprised that we soon look for a swimming spot because frankly the Adriatic has hardly any fish left. Mario talks about his business and we get an insight into the fishing and tour life. 

 JanRelaxing between fishing and swimming.
and the bait for fishing

Next we find a little cove and jump in to snorkel and swim. I am expecting cold water but it is a beautiful 24c. I feel refreshed but we only see about a dozen fish and a little bit of green coral. Mario tempts us with tasting sea urchins. We are up for it and he dives in to get a few. We are intrigued and 

we each hold one even though they are spiky. He cuts them in half to reveal their eggs(roe) and serves them with fresh bread and a glass of his home made wine. Nice morning tea!

The roe tastes rather creamy with only a slight fishy taste. Then we set off for another island and drop a drag line on the way. Jan and I have another swim then we try our hand at rod fishing. Jan catches a fish first throw and then let's it go to catch another straight away. I am not so lucky and decide to swim again instead.  I have another try but no luck. Mario then sets up a BBQ on the end of the boat to cook our fish lunch. He serves lovely salad and barbecued zucchini and eggplant  with a firm white fish washed down with his wine. We go back to the drag line and pull in three fish. It has been a lean day but at least we caught some.  I help by winding the rope on the float but it is snagged and he has to cut it free. This was a fabulous day and he was an interesting and friendly host. We both loved the boat and felt lucky it was just the two of us. Dramamine and I can go anywhere on anything now!

We return to Korcula to pick up the ferry tickets then back to Marijana's to change in her vestibule and off to the ferry departure point. We struggle over cobblestones with Jan's ever heavier suitcase and my somewhat heavier backpack.

We misunderstand what is meant by the end of the main road and have to backtrack half the distance to the ferry. It is hot and we are rather tired and a bit sticky from the Amy's swim. The only downside to Korcula is there appears to be only one public toilet and no fresh water showers for after bathing. The sea is very salty here. Now it is Dubrovnik and the flash hotel. I ring hoping for a shuttle to avoid the hassle of Jan's suitcase but it is in the old city and it is pedestrians only! The hotel sends SMS instructions and we will get a taxi for as close as possible.

Korcula 2nd August

Marijana our apartment landlord meets us on the jetty and takes us to our place. It is outside the old city walls but part of the old town and up a cobblestones street. Jan is struggling with her case and the cobblestones. Fortunately it isn't far. Her place is very modest but well priced, well placed, and comfortable. We crack jokes about the jewellery we bought causing us to stay in a budget place to compensate. Once settled we go exploring. It is very hot and we find a restaurant facing the sea with a cool breeze for lunch. We order large pizzas each because it is better value but they are huge. They are also delicious. After lunch we are both stuffed to the girls with pizza and we wander around checking out the church, the old town, the beaches etc. we are too full for dinner and eventually retire about 11:00 pm after a cocktail at a bar with live music. In fact there is music in several venues and it feels great. There is a drumming sound and a group of men appear waving the Croatian flag and beating drums and holding swords. We follow them like the rats in the Pied Piper of Hamelyn fairytale. We are trying to get a photo and see what is going on. Eventually we follow till they stop and one guy invites us to have our photos with him. They are traditional folk dancers.

This place has lots of music which we find enchanting. There were three young men singing acapella style in the courtyard. Their voices were so sweet and harmonious. It is a tradition here. When we return to the apartment we can here rock and roll coming from another cafe down the street. They have siesta here so the life starts again at 6:00pm and goes to about 2:00 am. It isn't wild just laid back and low key. We love the vibe. It is a pretty place although the harbour isn't as pretty as Hvar.

Torpedo boat excursion.what a blast

The jet boat on Hvar

We are booked for the three caves tour today and emphatically declined the sedate boat in preference for the fancy torpedo (they are specially designed for these sorts of tours. It looks like a jetski on steroids.) We are the oldest on this trip but we have a great time. We explore the green cave first and this involves jumping off the boat and then hauling yourself back up onto it. No ladders here. It is Not so easy pulling yourself onto a rubber zodiac type boat I discover but the others help and I get better at it as the day goes on. Next is a swim in a little cove where we have lunch too. Those large pebble beaches are tricky to walk on but my tevas do the job brilliantly. Next it is a secret cave that you need to dive down a metre to swim into. I am not keen on small places and decline this one. Jan does it but gets a bit spooked when the cave fills up with other people. Next stop is along a rugged coastline jumping waves and wash and generally zig zagging around to a natural jacuzzi where the waves wash into a spot above the water line. I swim into this and then climb the cliff to jump off to return to the boat. Jan is not great on heights and is hesitant but with encouragement ( jump, jump, jump) from everyone she takes the plunge. Next stop the monk seal cave which is pitch black and a great pirate lair. They used to be monk seals but they have declined and now are only found in the north of Croatia. We do further exploration of the coastline and eventually get to Stavinia cove. This is so pretty as two cliffs jut out leaving a narrow passage only to the sea. It almost conceals a delightful pebble beach. Access can be had from the land down a steep path. We saw a lot of people walking up like busy ants. Now our last stop is the famous blue cave. It is highly controlled and we have to buy an extra ticket to gain access. It was pretty amazing. There is a underwater entrance that let's the sun in to illuminate the water in the cave. Now we are all weary after 8 hours in and on the water. We look rather bedraggled but happy and get ready for our farewell Hvar dinner. 

Jan had seen a menu with poached peaches in lavender syrup with ice cream and has her heart set on it for dinner. It is at the Hotel Croatia round the point.  We get a table where we can watch the sunset and order dinner hoping for a better experience than we have had so far in restaurants here. The waiter is very obliging and all is going well until Jan starts to feel unwell. Eventually she cancels her meal and goes back to the hotel. I stay to report on the peaches. 

I have an absolutely delicious meal and great service which is a nice farewell to Hvar. Meanwhile when I return to the hotel Jan has thrown up in the garden on the way home and is tucked up in bed feeling awful.  It is such a pity. I showed her a photo of the peaches. We pack in readiness for the next day departure to Korcula. The hotel is organising the ferry tickets for us as we were out on the tour and couldn't queue.

Next morning Jan is feeling somewhat better but over breakfast we discover we are on the early ferry instead of the late ferry. We are a bit disappointed as we wanted to shop around before leaving.  As we go through the bill on check out we see that we have been charged double the cost for the ferry tickets. Jan gets assertive and says we were not told the extra cost, which is true and is not keen to pay it but when we are told it includes our luggage transfer to the ferry we decide to accept it. Her bag is quite awkward on the cobblestones as well as heavy.

Now we dash off to this Aladdin's cave of jewellery that we have glimpsed twice. Jan has her heart set on a couple of things and of course I am tempted too. I make my decision while Jan considers her various options. I pay and go to the ferry to make sure we are in line.  Jan arrives with only a few minutes to spare and we are off to Karcula. Hvar was so lovely we can't imagine Korcula being able to top it.